North America – PalmTreeMusings

Chris Hikes the Continental Divide (pt 2)

July 25, 2026August 22, 2026Posted in hiking, North AmericaTagged adventure, backpacking, CDT, Continental Divide Trail, Creede, hiking, nature, Pagosa Springs, travel, travel blogLeave a comment

This year, Chris spent July back on the trail, continuing north along the CDT. I dropped him off at Chama, New Mexico, hiked the first mile with him, and then he continued north, while I took the car to visit a friend in Durango. A few days later, and 70 trail miles later for him, I met up with Chris at Wolf Creek Ski Area, and we had a zero day in Pagosa Springs. We visited the local Walmart, had a delicious sandwich at The Peak Deli, bought some new hiking shoes at Foot Prints, and spent the afternoon at The Overlook, a fun mineral bath house that features over a dozen hot tubs and pools, all at different temperatures. Pro tip: take a hat if you want to spend time in the pools up on the roof overlooking the town!

A day off-trail spent at a mineral bath is a day well spent!

After his time off-trail, I left Chris at Wolf Creek Ski Area, and I drove up to South Fork to chill for a couple of days while he hiked. It’s a cute town and I enjoyed my stay at the Spruce Lodge. I took advantage of the fair weather and went on a short hike of my own. There’s also a neat “rail bike” that runs along the Rio Grande River between South Fork and Wagon Wheel Gap, through the Coller State Wildlife Area. Of course, hunting and fishing, hiking and riding ATVs are highlights of the area too. I bet this area is hopping during the snow season! The pizza at SoFo Pizza is worth a stop, in my opinion.

Our next rendezvous point was just a few miles outside of Creede. I arrived a little early at our agreed-upon spot, and set up my hammock to wait. A half hour or so later, I saw Chris clopping down the trail, having finished another 40 mile stretch. I bundled up my hammock and we went into Creede for lunch. Creede, a historic silver mining town, is one of my favorite small towns in Colorado. It has a handful of bars, restaurants, outfitters, art galleries, and even a drama reportory. There’s often a festival or event happening in town in the summer months. But plan ahead, because there are only 3 or 4 small hotels there. There are no major hotel chains, but there are lots of Airbnbs. They can get pretty pricey though.

Historic Creede, with hills full of silver

Chris stayed with me for a day in South Fork, resting his feet, and then I took him back to Creede so that he could reverse “slack-pack” a particularly brutal uphill climb out of the town. We drove up to the top of the 10-mile Bachelor Loop and he walked the trail southbound, heading back down into Creede without his heavy backpack. I visited a few shops and bars in town (fantastic ice cream) and picked him up a few hours later. The next day, we drove up to the same spot and he continued north, but at least he didn’t have to do four hours of uphill climbing to get there. Plus we got to see a momma moose and her two calves on the road.

Chris’s knee had been hurting him all through this stretch of Colorado, but he finished up one more 30 mile section between Creede and Cochetopa Pass. I thought about staying a night in Saguache, but after visiting the tiny town and their slightly creepy museum, I decided to wait at Gunnison for Chris to arrive. I have to say, the drive between Cochetopa Pass and Highway 50, as it winds through a river valley, is quite lovely. But since we were a ways into July, the days were getting pretty hot (although the nights were still a lot cooler than we get in Texas). Next year, hopefully, Chris and our hiking friend Piñata will be able to start from Cochetopa Pass and head north a little earlier in the season, in mid-May, and avoid the heat and the fires that were burning near Leadville and other parts of Colorado.

All in all, Chris managed another 200 miles of the CDT, bringing his total to over 1000 miles on the trail so far. Check back with us next year to read more about his hike further north, or click here for the post about the Arizona sections, or here for posts about the Appalachian Trail thru-hike of 2014 or the Pacific Crest Trail thru-hike of 2021.

Take a Bath in Berkeley Springs, West Virginia

March 31, 2026Posted in North America, US City GuidesTagged adventure, Berkeley Springs, best things to do in, budget travel, hiking, how to get to, nature, Spa towns, travel, travel blog, Travel Tips, West Virginia1 Comment

Berkeley Springs is the kind of place that feels timeless- you can easily imagine the first settlers in this small town, even as you enjoy the modern amenities it offers now. Known historically as the Town of Bath, it has been welcoming travelers for centuries with its mineral-rich warm springs, mountain views, and small‑town charm. Whether you’re craving a restorative weekend, an outdoor adventure, or a cozy getaway filled with art, food, and history, Berkeley Springs offers a little bit of everything—and then some.

Berkeley Springs’ warm mineral water springs have drawn visitors since the 1700s—including George Washington himself. Today, the heart of town is still Berkeley Springs State Park, where the warm, clear waters bubble up at a consistent 74.3°F. Visitors can soak in historic Roman baths, book private mineral tubs, or simply relax near the spring-fed fountains. The park is especially lovely in spring and fall, when blooming trees or fiery foliage frame the historic bathhouse.

The springs aren’t just a novelty—they’re a tradition. Generations have come here to “take the waters,” and the town continues to honor that heritage with spa treatments, massages, and wellness experiences rooted in its past. Chris and I indulged in a sauna, shower, and Roman bath trio at the state park’s main bath house, which cost about $80 for the two of us (be sure to ask about a military discount if you served).

While the warm springs may be the star, the surrounding landscape is just as captivating. Just 15 minutes from downtown, Cacapon Resort State Park spans more than 6,000 acres of forests, trails, and scenic overlooks. It’s a paradise for hikers, mountain bikers, horseback riders, and families looking for a day of fresh air. In summer, Lake Cacapon becomes a hub for swimming and paddleboarding, while fall transforms the park into a kaleidoscope of color. We visited Berkeley Springs at the tail end of winter, with just a bit of snow on the ground, as spring was just around the corner.

For a quick but unforgettable view, head to Prospect Peak Overlook, one of the most photographed views in the region. From here, layers of mountains and river valleys stretch into the distance—a perfect spot for sunset watchers and photographers.

Berkeley Springs may be small, but it’s rich with stories. A visit to the Museum of the Berkeley Springs helps explain how the springs shaped the town’s identity, from Indigenous use to colonial spa culture.

Wandering through town, you’ll find historic landmarks tucked between boutiques, cafés, and galleries. One quirky must‑see is George Washington’s Bathtub, a stone outline marking where the first president once soaked in the warm waters. It’s a fun reminder that even great leaders needed a little self‑care. No, you can’t take a bath in GW’s tub!

For a small town, Berkeley Springs offers an impressive variety of dining options. From cozy cafés to upscale restaurants, you’ll find something to satisfy every craving. The town’s culinary scene reflects its welcoming atmosphere—warm, unpretentious, and rooted in local flavor. We especially enjoyed morning coffee and muffins at Fairfax Coffee House, and later the creative choices at Mythical Pizza.

Craft beer lovers will appreciate the two local breweries, each offering its own take on West Virginia’s brewing traditions. After a day of hiking or soaking, there’s nothing better than settling in with a cold pint and a hearty meal.

The town even hosts the International Water Tasting each February—a quirky, beloved event known as the “Academy Awards of Water,” complete with a “Water Rush” where attendees can grab as many bottles as they can carry.

Berkeley Springs offers a wide range of accommodations, from charming bed‑and‑breakfasts to modern vacation rentals nestled in the woods. Many visitors choose to stay in cabins near Cacapon State Park, where mornings begin with birdsong and mountain mist. Others prefer the convenience of staying in town, steps away from spas, shops, and restaurants. The main anchor point of the town is the Country Inn of Berkeley Springs, featuring 60 guest rooms, a spa, tavern, and gardens. We found a cute little AirBnB that featured both an electric fireplace and a jetted bath tub, just one block off the main street that runs through town.

Berkeley Springs is a 90‑minute drive from the Washington, D.C. and Baltimore metro areas, making it an easy weekend escape. Once you arrive, the town is walkable, and most attractions are just a short drive away.

Don’t Yuck out on the Yucatan

January 8, 2026January 24, 2026Posted in North AmericaTagged backpacking, beach, best things to do in, budget travel, Cenote, Chichen Itza, food, how to get to, Mexico, scuba diving, travel, travel blog, Travel Tips, Tulum, ValladolidLeave a comment

If you’re looking for a solid week of adventure, fun, and food, look no further than the Yucatan Peninsula in Mexico. For ritzy beach and all-inclusive resorts lovers, look to the north end at Holbox, Cancun, Cozumel, and Playa del Carmen. If ‘pueblo magicos’ and dusty beach towns is more your style, consider the southern end, Tulum and Valledolid.

We wanted to visit some Mayan ruins and also dive at some cenotes, so we decided on exploring the quieter side of the Yucatan. We flew into the fairly new Tulum international airport, and hopped on the ADO shuttle bus into town. Our hotel was just two blocks from the bus station, so it was an easy walk to BAU Tulum, a cute boutique hotel. And then the search for tacos and cervezas was on!

Spoiler alert: it didn’t take long to find!

Tulum has a nearby international airport, as well as direct bus and train lines to nearby cities and tourist destinations. It has rounded the corner from “sleepy beach town” and is now considered pretty “boho chic” and might be on it’s way to “pricey resort town”. You can still get an inexpensive hotel and dinner out for under 500 Mexican pesos, but you can also visit one of the 8 Michelin-rated restaurants in town and stay at an upscale resort or condo. Tulum has a bit of a focus on health and wellness, so it still attracts a lot of backpackers, local tourists, and off-the-beaten path adventurists. It’s super easy to hop into a collectivo and visit sites north or south of town, or head to the ADO bus station to get a direct bus to Playa del Carmen, Valladolid, or Merida. There is also the Mayan Tren option if you want to take it direct north to Cancun or south to Chetumal.

Just north of Tulum is the Tulum Ruins, a Mayan archeological site dating back to the 13th to 15th centuries, called the “City of the Dawn” due to it’s east-facing orientation at the edge of the peninsula. It is considered rare for the Mayans, because it is a walled city. It likely had a population of 1,000 to 2,000 people. It’s fairly easy to visit from the town of Tulum- you can actually walk or bike there from town, or just flag down a collectivo heading north and ask to be let out at the Tulum ruins, which should cost you about 30 pesos per person. Visiting the ruins, unfortunately, is not so inexpensive, and will run you closer to 400 pesos, as it is now part of Mexico’s official INAH (National Institute of Archeology and History). The entry ticket will get you into the museum, the ruins, the lighthouse, Jaguar Park, and a visit to the nearby beach. The ruins are open from 8 am to 5 pm daily.

The Tulum ruins are perched on a cliff overlooking the ocean

Another fun thing to do while in the area is to visit a cenote and take a swim. These natural sinkholes were formed ages ago by rainwater filtering through limestone caves, some with collapsed ceilings, letting in sunlight and rainwater. Civilizations as far back as the Mayans knew about these freshwater sources, and were considered sacred sites (many cenotes have had human bones excavated from their depths). The Yucatan has more cenotes than any other place in the world. One of the most famous, and most dived, cenotes is Dos Ojos. We contacted a local dive shop, Agua Clara, and they took us on a two-tank dive to this beautiful site. We did two 45-minute dives, swimming from one cenote, through a cave, and then into the other cenote, and then back again. The water was chilly but not freezing (I wore a shorty wetsuit, while Chris dove in just his swim trunks), and the fresh, cold water was stunningly clear. Swimming amongst the stalactites and stalagmites was something I will definitely never forget. What a wonder!

We liked roaming around Tulum a lot, but we wanted to check out Valladolid as well, another of Mexico’s “pueblos magicos”. Buses run daily between Tulum and Valladolid, so it was no problem hopping on one and arriving in the town two hours later. We settled in at Valladolid 48, a hotel/hostel just off the main shopping/dining area, and had a wander through town. The next day, we walked to the collectivo station and for 100 pesos, got a round-trip ticket to Chichen Itza and back (or you can get one that includes a visit to a nearby cenote on the return). The Chichen Itza ruins get pretty busy (and hot in the afternoons), so it’s advisable to go as early as you can. You’ll have to brave long rows of vendors selling everything from jewelry to statues, blankets to macrame, on your way in and out of the archeological site. This one will cost you around 600 pesos each, made in two different payments (one to the federal government of Mexico and one to the local Yucatan government). Once inside, you’ll run the gauntlet of even more vendors, but finally you get to the wide, open area and take a look at “El Castillo”, with 365 steps leading to the top of this four-sided pyramid. All of the monuments at Chichen Itza are roped off, no climbing, no touching, which is probably for the best. If they weren’t roped off, there would probably be a Coca-Cola refreshment stand at the top of one, with a guy selling soapstone pyramid statues next to it.

While in Valladolid, we visited an apiary in an old dried cenote and learned about different kinds of bees, we watched a sound and light show at the old convent church that told the history of the area, and we tried all kinds of different foods and drinks. One of our favorites was actually an Argentinian restaurant that makes their own kombucha and empañadas, called Tresvanbien. I wish we’d had time to visit there again, but the next day we wanted to try another new place, and didn’t regret the dinner at Papillon Taqueria, or drinks at The Mule Cantina in the Calzada de Los Frailles street. It’s close to the bus station and has plenty of options for casual or fine dining, and is a particular gem in the evenings.

If you get tired of tacos, there’s always empañadas

Have you visited the Yucatan? Do you prefer the beach, golf, and all-inclusive resorts in the north, or the ruins and the cenotes further south? Got a favorite taco stand you’d like to share? Tell us all about it.

Taxco, the silver capital of Mexico

November 30, 2024December 13, 2024Posted in North AmericaTagged backpacking, best things to do in, budget travel, how to get to, Mexico, Pozas azules, pueblos magicos, silver mine, Taxco, travel, travel blog1 Comment

November is such a nice time of year to visit Mexico- beautiful weather, low crowds- so this year we decided to spend Thanksgiving break in Taxco, one of Mexico’s “Pueblo Magicos”, or Magic Towns. These charming small cities feature walkable city centers, historic churches and plazas, and plenty of delicious options to eat and drink.

Arriving at the Mexico City airport, there’s three easy ways to get to downtown, or to any of the main bus stations. You can hop in a taxi, take the Metrobus, or walk all the way down to Door One and access the subway. For 15 pesos (75¢ US) you can buy a metro card, and then each ride is 5 pesos (25¢). Two people can share one metro card. We transferred to the blue line’s last stop, the Tasqueño bus terminal. It’s a very nice, very modern bus terminal, and we found busses departing for Tasco every 90 minutes. 554 pesos later (approx $25 USD), we had two bus tickets on Costa Lines and were on our way.

We arrived in Taxco two and a half hours later and walked from the central bus station to our hotel, the Posada de San Javier ($65 per night for a king suite, with breakfast). The city of Taxco trails down the side of a mountain, so it doesn’t matter where you stay- everywhere you go is going to be a short but steep climb from your hotel or restaurant or the main zocalo. Just take it slow and steady, or hop in one of the ubiquitous VW taxis that constantly circle the plazas.

The stunning main feature of Taxco is the twin-spired baroque Church of Santa Pisca, built from 1751-1759. Everything else in the historic city can be found in relation to the church. Wanting to really relax on our trip, we spent four days in town and found ourselves lounging on rooftop terraces, enjoying coffees and chilaquiles in the mornings or hot chocolates and churros in the evenings. We spotted a few other gringo tourists in town, but the majority seemed to be visitors from other parts of Mexico or Latin America. Taxco feels safe, is easy to walk around, and has options to fit any budget.

Our favorite activities in Taxco:

Take the cable car up to the Hotel Montetaxco and enjoy the view from their mirador, while sipping a juice cocktail. It costs 9 pesos to hop in a collectivo (combi) to reach the base of the teleferico. Round trip tickets on the cable car are 120 pesos, or you can take the cable car up and walk down.
Visit the Pre-Historic Mine, located underneath the Hotel Posada de la Mision. Tickets are 180 pesos and come with a mezcal cocktail afterwards at the hotel bar. The tour is in Spanish but the guide translates parts of it.
Visit the silversmith shops or workshops, pretty much all over the city. Look for the .925 or .950 stamp if you’re looking to buy, or just enjoy watching the sheer talent of the artisan workers.
Eat pozole at any number of pozolerias (Tia Calle was very inexpensive, if not very atmospheric).
Try the region’s pink rosa mole dish, made with rose petals and white chocolate. We enjoyed the dish at La Parroquia, which features balconies and a terrace overlooking the main zocalo. A perfect al fresco dinner spot.
Plenty of places offer chocolate and churros, but we liked Chu Cho, nestled in Plazuela de Bernal, for their wide variety of toppings (try the marzipan!).
Visit the Pozas Azules (blue swimming holes). You can take a full-day guided tour from one of the tour operators in town, or just walk to the main road and grab a combi heading out of town toward Acapulco (the stop is in front of the Coppell building). The combi costs 35 pesos, and entrance to the pools is 100 pesos.
Tour the Spratling Pre-Hispaña Museum. Spratling put Taxco on the map in 1929 and made sure its pre-Hispanic culture would be preserved. This museum features his private collection of artifacts. Worth a visit, and only 75 pesos per person.
For another beautiful view of the town, visit the Cristo Rey statue above the main plaza. It takes about 45 minutes to walk up there, or take a taxi for 80 pesos.
Eat as much ice cream as possible. We liked the Crema y Nata Heladeria, tucked into the bend right at Plaza Del Convento. Delicious!

Have you been to Taxco, or another of the Pueblos Magicos in Mexico? What was your favorite part?

Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta

October 16, 2024December 4, 2024Posted in North AmericaTagged Albuquerque, best things to do in, budget travel, festivals, fiestas, hot air balloon ride, hot-air-balloon, New Mexico, photography, travel, travel blogLeave a comment

After wanting to go for several years, we finally made the time to go to Albuquerque, New Mexico for their annual balloon fiesta. And wow, am I glad we did!

The balloon fiesta is now in its 52nd year, with over 700 balloon pilots and their teams working hard every day for two weeks to launch their balloons every morning, and provide other fun activities in the evenings, such as a “glow”, a drone show, concerts, indigenous dancing, and skydiving.

Watching the “glow” and then the mass ascension of 700 balloons

We stayed with friends of ours who live in the area, and one of them is a “zebra”, or Launch Director, for the fiesta. They are called zebras because they wear black and white only, so they can be seen on the fields as they direct the launch of multiple balloons near them during the daily Mass Ascension.

A zebra in action, helping to launch a balloon

Because balloons most frequently launch at sunrise, we had to get up very early in order to get to the festival and be in place in time for sunrise. By 5 AM, thousands of visitors were arriving at the balloon fiesta complex, getting ready for the 7 AM sunrise. We had backstage passes from our friend, so we were able to access the breakfast provided to the pilot and their teams, as well as warm up a bit in the facilities. It’s very cold in the morning before the sun comes up. Be sure to dress in layers, and even bring a blanket to wrap up in. The city of Albuquerque is at quite a high elevation, in the mornings and evenings can get very cool.

I would recommend purchasing tickets to both a morning event and an evening event, and possible a third morning or evening as back up. The tickets are fairly inexpensive at $15 for general admission, and kids 12 and under are free. Each year, one day of the festival is free for New Mexico residents. Visitors can pay for parking at the balloon complex, or can purchase Park and Ride tickets and board a bus at the nearby mall or churches.