Life in Ndjamena, Chad

Fishing on Chari River in Chad

Aside from a missed 6 am airport shuttle and a 500 yard dash down the terminal to reach my plane (last passenger on!), the flights to Chad went pretty smoothly. A quick layover in DC, one last slice of pizza, then a layover in Addis Ababa, a St George beer (8 am, y’all, that’s how I roll), and finally made it to Chad around 1 pm the next day. Of course I didn’t sleep on the plane and instead watched six movies.

My new home in Ndjamena

In our first month here we tried a few restaurants around town- according to the “Welcome to Ndjamena” handout we got, there are about 10 here in town- and had some pretty good food. Restaurant prices aren’t too bad, about $40 (or 20,000 CFA- Central African Francs) for the two of us. We tried a casual Lebanese place, a brick oven pizza place, and an upscale French restaurant- very good beef medallions with a yum sauce at that one. There is also a couple of Chinese restaurants, a couple of Chadian places, and I think another Lebanese cafe as well.

Time for dinner!


Grocery shopping, on the other hand, was not so successful. We visited 2 tiny little grocery stores- like the size of a small 7-11 back home- and spent about $50 at each one and came home with…. not much. No fresh fruits/veg, no fresh bread, no meat. Everyone here employs a maid 5 days a week (which costs about $110 a month) and gives the maid some money to go to the outdoor market to purchase fresh food. And they drive across the border to Cameroon and go shopping there.


Speaking of the weather, it’s hot all right, (this is Central Africa) but not quite as bad as Khartoum. It’s rainy season right now, so it rains- and I mean really rains- every afternoon around 4 pm and that really cools things off, so you can actually go for a jog in the evening or something. And someone told me that the weather gets pretty nice by late October. Although, along with the rains, comes the bugs. The week I arrived here was like BUG WEEK- you can hear them crunching on the driveway as you drive up to the house. If you accidentally leave a light on inside when you open your front door- forget it; your front entryway will be COVERED with bugs drawn to the light.


The internet went out at our house Friday night, so no communications on Saturday or Sunday. I was really starting to panic by Monday afternoon, as I had a paper due in my grad class by midnight, so we went over to the Marine House and I used the computer there and we watched the Emmy’s on AFN. Ah, good old Armed Forces Network. Of course afterwards, we came home and our internet was working again.

Field Trip! to the Brasserie du Tchad, where they make Gala beer


Tuesday was a better day- I worked on my classwork a while, got all caught up, read all the requirements for my Capstone week- please, oh please let the internet work that week- and then I visited the doctor at the Embassy (he gave me some malaria pills- in 8 years I have never taken malaria pills but maybe this year I will start)- visited the CLO and her library (ooh, books and DVDs- perfect!), and finally met with the Public Affairs Officer who may have a job for me. Looks like that will all get decided soon (inshallah).

We went to a security briefing- since Chad is not nearly as strictly Muslim as Sudan was, I have to worry less about being stoned to death for not being married to my partner. However, since there is Boko Haram activity nearby, I do have to worry more about kidnappings. According to the embassy, I’m not allowed to take a taxi, ride a public bus, or walk anywhere. However, since I don’t actually work for the embassy, at least not yet, I’m also not supposed to have an embassy driver take me anywhere. It’s a bit confusing.


Chris and I went to the 531 club (5:31pm, get it?) and had happy hour with folks from the embassy. I met some more people and I’m invited to French Conversation lesson tomorrow with Mrs. B, the ambassador’s wife, who is also from Dallas…. there’s tennis lessons at the French Rec center….. yoga at the Esso oil compound….possibly reorganizing the now defunct Ndjamena Hash House Harriers….. there’s a play being put on tomorrow that we’re supposed to go to, a reception on Thursday night for the new political affairs officer, and a goodbye party on Friday night for someone that is leaving here. Mia Farrow is coming to visit Chad soon for some charity work and there will be an event welcoming her to the area. So…. hopefully between my class and getting a job (hoping to talk to Esso oil people this week, see if they have any openings- they pay big bucks), plus lots of extra curriculars, our time won’t be too hard here. And Chris is going to Germany in November, so there is a possibility I could go along for a little R&R. We’ll see how it goes!

Sri Lanka: Island Adventure

Deah in Sri Lanka Unawatuna

After Chris and I won plane tickets at the Caledonian Society Ball in November, we decided to use those plane tickets to fly to Sri Lanka for my spring break.  We left on Sunday around 3 pm and after a short layover in Abu Dhabi, we arrived in Sri Lanka around 3 am.  We were tired but happy to be there.  We hired a car and a driver and set out just before dawn to the city of Dumballah.  We arrived around 10 am and luckily were able to check into our hotel a bit early.  A small nap, and we were ready to see the Sigiriya Rock Fortress, a tall magma plug that sits in the middle of a huge plains area.  You can climb to the top and see where a fortress once stood in the 4th century.  Beautiful views and remnants of the past in the rock paintings and lion’s paws that are all that are left of some past statue.

We also visited the Dumballah Buddhist cave temples, home to over 150 statues of Buddha, some over 11 m tall.  Also around the caves were dozens of monkeys, which are always really fun to watch as they scamper and play.

After a good night’s rest, we headed into the center of the island to visit Kandy, a former capital city.  Kandy is a lovely city with a square man-made lake in the middle, with dozens of guest houses and hotels on the hillsides looking over the lake.  We visited Buddha’s Sacred Tooth Temple and went to a traditional Kandyan dance show, including firewalkers.  We also visited an elephant orphanage, where I got to bathe an elephant and Chris and I went for a ride on one.  Very fun!  Later, our guest house provided a fantastic meal of rice and various curries, with ice cream for dessert.  We ate it all, with several Lion Lagers to wash it all down.  So far, the food had been excellent everywhere we went.

kandy dancers cultural sri lanka
Kandy dancers
temple of buddha's sacred tooh kandy sri lanka
Temple of Buddha’s Sacred Tooth
Kandy Lake Sri Lanka
Kandy Lake
riding an elephant in sri lanka
Elephant Ride
deah bathes an elephant in sri lanka river
Elephant Bath

On Wednesday we left Kandy and on the way out of town we stopped at the Botanical Gardens that were once a rajah’s pleasure gardens.  Huge bamboo trees, a giant javan fig tree, tall majestic king palm coconut trees, and amazing expanses of grass… a wonderful park.  I only wish we had been able to really laze around and take a picnic lunch and enjoy the park all day.  But, we wanted to go down to Ella and see some tea plantations and visit an ayurvedic spa, so we were soon heading south again, winding around high mountain roads with green tea fields on either side.  We stopped for a look at a double waterfall, Rombola Falls, and a tour of a tea factory (with a cuppa tea and a slice of chocolate cake afterward, yum).  When we arrived in Ella it was misty and raining but for us from Sudan that is a great feeling.  We went for a walk, I had a massage, and we sat at a roadside bar and shared some spiced cashews and some beers as we held hands and watched the pedestrians.

Another fabulous meal at our guest house, with a wonderful view of Ella Gap.  Bedtime came early for us and the next day we left the highlands and headed for the coast.  We passed a national park and without even entering the park we counted 12 elephants sighted just along the perimeter.  Wow!  Then the coastal road as we headed toward Unawatuna, a quiet and simple stretch of beach with a dozen or so guest houses and restaurants, and two dive shops.  We arranged two dives- one around a large rock on the ocean floor and another of an 1869 sunken ship- and had a great time in the ocean.  Later, a long walk on the beach and a fish dinner, complete with more Lion beer, made a fantastic end to our day.

girl at unawatuna beach sri lanka
Deah at Unatawuna beach

On our last day we went into Galle and walked around, enjoying a lunch while overlooking the ramparts of the fort.  While driving up towards Colombo, we stopped at the Matura River and went on a boat ride, stopping at a cinnamon island, a fishery, and seeing several shrimp catching systems along the way.  Monkeys, water monitors, and lots of birds kept our attention as we boated around the seawater river and “lake”.  After leaving the river, we passed through Colombo, but as it was raining and rather dark we really didn’t stop to see much.  We enjoyed one last lovely dinner with our driver at his house, meeting his family, and then we were on a plane heading home.

girl in orange shirt pounding cinnamon on sri lanka island
Deah, cinnamon island
man in boat on river safari sri lanka
Chris, river safari

As we had a 24 hour layover in Abu Dhabi, we got a hotel room in the city so we could enjoy some shopping, a movie, and a dinner out.  All too soon it was time to board the plane to Khartoum and start thinking about work again.

Hiking Kili

couple at bottom of mount kilimanjaro tanzania

I’m not really sure who’s bright idea it was originally, but for Christmas this year, Adam and Hussam (my travel partners to Ethiopia last year) and I decided that this year we would climb Mt. Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa.  Luckily, Chris was able to get a week off and climb with us.

We arrived in Moshi, Tanzania, and went to our rooms at the local YMCA. We met with our tour guide later that day to get a few last minute items such as heavy coats and sleeping bags.  Since we had been living in Khartoum, we didn’t actually own any of those items, so we rented them for the hike. We paid the rest of our money owed on our trip and we were ready to go!

couple at bottom of mount kilimanjaro tanzania
Deah and Chris at the foot of Kili

We began our climb on Sunday, December 19th.  The first day we started out at about 1800 meters above sea level, at the gates to the Kilimanjaro National Park.  Below that level is cultivated land, and above 1800 m is a rainforest.  Our first day’s walk, about 5 hours, was 9 km long and we rose about 900 meters to a height of 2700 meters.  The weather was hot and humid and it rained a bit.  The climb was not too bad and we were tired but not exhausted when we reached our first camp, Mandara camp.  We had a snack of tea and popcorn, got our cabin ready, ate dinner, and went to sleep…. wondering what the next day would be like.

On Monday we hiked from Mandara camp to Homboro camp, another 9 or 10 km and another 900 meters up in altitude.  Again, about 5 or 6 hours of hiking, although the altitude was noticeably thinner and breathing was more difficult.  The rain forest behind us, we hiked through moorlands, with strange trees and little animal life.  By the time we got to Homboro we all had headaches, were pretty tired, and glad of an acclimatization day the next day.

couple halfway up mount kilimanjaro tanzania marangu route
Halfway up!

Day three we stayed at Homboro camp and took a short walk up to the Zebra Rocks, a strange rock formation made of naturally occuring black and white striped rocks.  Our headaches were better but we were still dreading the following day as we were to climb to Kibo Camp.

zebra rocks mount kilimanjaro tanzania marangu route coca cola route
Zebra Rocks

Day four we climbed through the alpine desert to Kibo Camp, an altitude of 4700 meters.  It took us maybe 4 or 5 hours, but we were all definitely suffering by the end of it.  The weather was much colder, we had some rain and hail, although periodically the sun would come out and the fleece sweaters would come off.  By the time we reached Kibo my head was killing me and my vision was blurry and seeing double.  I could keep my head down and watch the trail in front of me but if I tried to raise my eyes I would see a bright corona around everything and it hurt like hell.  I hoped a nap and some food would help me recover enough to attempt the summit at midnight.

Kibo camp was freezing cold (literally) and we slept a bit and ate some dinner- pasta- trying to carb up for the final ascent.  After dinner we slept some more and were awoken at midnight.  We were already wearing most of our clothes so we just put on our gloves and jackets and started off for the final 1200 meters up.

Kibo hut very cold mount kilimanjaro tanzania
Freezing cold at Kibo

After 2 hours and having only made it 200 or 300 meters, I knew I couldn’t go on.  I really wanted Adam and Hussam and Chris to be able to summit and I was holding them back with my slow pace.  I thought I could maybe eke out another hour or two max, but I knew I’d never reach Gilman’s Point at 5700 meters or the top of Uhuru Peak at 5895 meters.  So finally I decided to cut my losses and head back to Kibo.  I convinced Chris that it was okay to go on without me, and I headed back down.  I was sad that I couldn’t finish but frankly was in too much pain to really care that much.  All I wanted was a bed and (more) headache medicine.

sunrise from the top of mount kilimanjaro tanzania overlooking mount kenya
Sunrise at the top! Pic from Chris

I sat at Kibo camp and watched the stars and the summit for a while.  Finally it was too cold to stay out any longer so I went in and went to sleep in my bunk.  Around noon, the guys returned, having successfully summited.  They rested at Kibo for a couple of hours and then we returned down to Homboro camp for our final night on the mountain.

The last day we walked down the 20 km from Homboro to Mandara camp, to the park gate.  Even going down was not exactly easy.  Our knees and toes were screaming from the downward motion.  But the breathing was much easier and our headaches were gone.  At last we reached the bottom, 2 pm on Christmas Eve day.  We celebrated with a Kilimanjaro beer, and the guys collected their certificates.  We shuffled off back to our hotel, looking forward to a hot shower and a warm bed.

A great adventure! Did I fail at climbing Mt Kilimanjaro? I prefer instead to think of the words of Ralph Waldo Emerson, who said: “To finish the moment, to find the journey’s end in every step of the road, to live the greatest number of good hours, is wisdom.” .

A trip to Mainland Greece

Chris and Deah in Athens, Parhenon

This most recent vacation was really special to me, because it was the first vacation in a long time that Chris and I were able to actually fly to together!  Although we often meet up with each other in a new city or country, it is rare that we are both flying from the same place.  In fact, the last time we were on a flight together was three years ago when we flew to Sao Tome for Christmas!  So it was really nice to be able to fly to Istanbul and then Athens together last week.

We had a long layover in Istanbul and discovered that transit passengers could go on a free day tour of Istanbul.  The airline handled everything and we had a wonderful breakfast, tour, and lunch with a small group of 10, and then back to the airport.  We flew on to Greece the same day and arrived in Athens in the early evening.

Super tired (our flight had left Khartoum at 3:30 am), we slept well and were ready to go see the Acropolis on Thursday.  The huge outcropping of rock with the remains of the temples on it was amazing!  It started to rain, but we really didn’t even mind, as we have spent these last long weeks in the hot dry desert, so the rain to us felt wonderful.

We spent the rest of the day and the next exploring Athens, looking for cozy tavernas to sit in and drink wine, ouzo, and beer while trying dishes such as souvlaki, moussaka, and of course lots of Greek salads.

Sadly, on Sunday Chris had to leave for work, so I headed up to Delphi to see the oracle and get any advice.  Getting off the bus at the same time as me were two Americans that, it turned out, are teaching in Qatar.  We found a hotel and did some sightseeing, and soon met another lonely traveler who was looking for adventure and had a car.  We all agreed to stay in Delphi another day, eat lots of pork souvlaki, and then head to Meteora together.

Delphi arch ruins Greece
Delphi

On Tuesday we drove up to Meteora and explored the fabulous monasteries there atop the cliffs.  The weather was wonderful and it felt great to be outside.  The view from the monasteries was majestic, and that night we stayed in the beautiful Guesthouse Iridanos, where we had a fireplace in our room and a balcony overlooking the mountains. The owner recommended a restaurant in the town of Kalambaka, which was delicious.

I headed north next, to Thessaloniki, and spent two days there.  Another day of rainy weather, but to me the cool fall weather was a welcome change and I was determined to relish it while I could.  It was bacon for breakfast, pork souvlaki for lunch, and grilled pork chops for dinner, as all too soon it would be time to head back to Khartoum.  In between stuffing myself, I found some Macedonian museums and Byzantine churches to explore as well.

After taking the night train from Thessaloniki to Istanbul, I had two days in the East/West capital and revisited some of my favorite sights of that city.  The Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the Basilica Cistern are wondrous and I will likely never get tired of them.  I was looking for some of the hanging Turkish lanterns and trying to avoid the ubiquitous carpet sellers while I shopped my way through the Grand Bazaar.  Sadly, the hour did arrive and I was on my way back to Sudan.  Luckily, it’s a bit cooler now that it is November, and with the Caledonian Society ball and a retreat to the Nile River planned for the next two weekends, time should pass quickly and then Adam, Hussam, and I will be on our way to Mt. Kilimanjaro!