The Netherlands and Belgium

Windmills line a canal in the Dutch countryside

Knowing that by early June the summer heat would arrive where I live, I wanted to pick a place to travel that would have delightfully cool, even rainy, weather. We chose The Netherlands and Belgium, flying in and out of Amsterdam (strangely, a whole lot less miles on United than other nearby airports). We packed our rain jackets in our backpacks, and away we went!

A cool and rainy morning as we arrive at Central Station

Our first two days, in Amsterdam, we were glad we had packed our long pants and our rainjackets, and our hotel kindly offered us an umbrella, which we definitely needed. We explored the area near the Damrak, the red light district, the Tulip Museum, and a Rembrandt/Van Gogh exhibit, and loved it. We dodged speeding bicycles and ate bacalhau from Portugal, nasi goreng from Indonesia, gyros from Turkey, and canneloni from Italy, and loved that too. We did not get to visit the Anne Frank house, as it was fully booked for the next six weeks. Plan early on that one, friends!

The word for “tulip” stems from the word for “turban”, as the flowers originated in the Kazakhstan area of Asia

From Amsterdam, we headed down to Antwerp to get a sense of Belgium. Unfortunately there was a train strike that day, and all busses were booked, so we wound up Ubering there. Ouch. It was pricey, but only a 90 minute drive, and then we were there. I love how close European cities are to each other. In north Texas you can drive for 90 minutes and only be one county away.

No trains running today in Netherlands. Time to go to plan B.

In Antwerp we visited a diamond museum, and we set out to try as many Belgian beers as humanly possible. Also as many Belgian fries. We went on a food tour of Antwerp, and enjoyed it so much, we went on a food tour of Bruges a few days later. Did you know there’s two different kinds of Belgian waffles? I like the smaller, denser kind with the sugar baked right in. Delicious!! We stayed three nights in Bruges and added a visit to the North Sea at Oostend. It was not quite so balmy and in fact rather chilly, so we didn’t get any true “beach time”, which actually was fine with me. We had thought to find Belgium’s one nude beach but in the end didn’t bother since there was no way we were getting undressed anyway.

Food tour for 10 euros? Yes I will. Twice!

We caught a train from Bruges to Ghent, a cute little medieval city featuring an old castle, monasteries, public squares, and a large Friday market. It was so easy for a few days to take my mind away from the trials and tribulations of living in a big metropolis such as Dallas/Fort Worth, and imagine life in the 8th century in Europe (not that I would necessarily want to trade, as I happen to like sanitation and air conditioning a lot).

Ghent

Although there is a whole lot of Belgium we hadn’t yet seen, it was time to travel north up to the Netherlands again. We took a train from Ghent to Rotterdam. After these smaller, medieval cities, Rotterdam seems so big and so modern! After near total destruction in the second World War, the city was practically rebuilt from the ground up in the following years, during some really interesting architectural times.

The Cube Houses. Not sure if I could get used to everything being a bit slanted.

We took a waterbus to Kinderdijke, a system of 16 windmills that are still operating to drain canals and form dry land, which is how about 20% of the Netherlands has been formed over the past 500 years. Two of the windmills are museums, and you can go inside them and see how people lived in them and worked the canals. The other 14 windmills actually still have families living in them now!

Ready to go live in a windmill!

After Rotterdam, we took a train to The Hague. There was a lot going on there, in preparation for a huge NATO summit featuring Trump himself. We went to check out an anti-NATO/anti-Trump protest, and noted the increased police presence. In the end, we took a day trip out to Madurodam to get away from it all. Madurodam is a fun outdoor theme park, featuring dozens of large-size “miniatures” of some of the regions’ most famous buildings, such as Kinderdyke, various palaces and judicial buildings, and the Schipol airport. It’s fun to roam through the miniatures, pretending like you’re a giant.

That’s a really big duck! No, just a miniature Dutch house.

Our last stop before returning to Amseterdam was Delft, to see the Royal Delft Museum and factory. The museum tour is really well organized, and you can watch actual current artists and factory workers as they churn out new and ever-evolving Delft pottery, 400 years after the company began. We also really enjoyed staying at the Social Hub in Delft, where we had access to free laundry, a yoga class, bikes, and more. The place had a really nice vibe and we liked it a lot.

Industry secret: the Delft blue is actually black ink! It turns blue during the kiln firing procedure.

We circled back to Amsterdam and spent the last couple of days wandering through the less-touristed areas of town, such as some residential areas, a large central park, and made sure we sampled the last few dishes we’d been craving, such as an Argentinian steak, a Dutch treat called Bitterballen, and stroopwaffel cannolis. We took a half day trip out to the small town of Edam, home of Edam cheese, to check out their Wednesday market. We picked up soft cheese, spelt bread, chocolates, and blueberrries, and walked to the coastal town of Volendam, which is a super cute fishing town only about 2 km from Edam. We sat on a picnic bench at the wharf and watched the boats sail in and out of the harbor, and tried to keep our picnic safe from the seagulls.

Trying to calculate how much cheese I can fit into my carry on

Not a moment too soon, as a heat wave was about to engulf Europe, it was time to head home and check on our parents, siblings, and friends. Still a month to go on summer break for me, so July is sure to bring some fun trips as well. Be sure to check back soon!

Interview with Chris: Diving and Thriving in the Pacific Islands

Our fearless traveler Chris is often again, wending his way through the last four independent island nations in the north Pacific Ocean. He visited Chuuk, Micronesia, then Palau, East Timor, and the Solomon Islands. Here’s what he had to say about his adventure.

Q: Once again, you ventured off without your wife (me). Why did you travel solo this time?

Deah recently went back to work, and it’s hard to get enough time off to get all the way out to the Pacific islands and back. We talked about going together in the summer months, when she has more time off, but there were other places higher on her bucket list. Plus, visiting these island nations involves a LOT of flight time, which isn’t her favorite thing. So it worked out better for me to go by myself. I promised to be home for her Spring Break so we could go somewhere on her list.

Staying in Chuuk

Q: I know you enjoy scuba diving. Where all did you scuba dive on this trip, and what did you see?

I went diving in Chuuk, Palau, and East Timor, and snorkeled in Guadalcanal, Solomon Islands. This time I brought a Go-Pro with me, because I’d been wanting to shoot some underwater videos. I did a lot of wreck diving, to see some Japanese ships from World War 2. My favorite diving excursion was to see the manta rays in Palau, with Blue Marlin Diving Company.

Diving with the Manta Rays in Palau

Q: I know it takes a lot of flights to get to these islands. How many flights did you have to take for this trip?

13 flights in total. We had accrued points with both American and United, so we were able to use those points rather than dollars for several flights. From Texas to Hawaii, then I hopped on the United Island Hopper to get to Chuuk and to Palau. I also had to overnight in Manila, Bali, and Darwin in order to get to the rest of my destinations. All in all, it was a lot of flying time. It’s hard to get all the Pacific Islands in one trip due to the many flights.

Flying into Dili, East Timor

Q: What kind of food did you eat on this trip? Anything you really liked?

The islands tend to have a lot of starches like ramen noodles, rice, fewer fresh vegetables, and canned meats. I liked the Japanese and the Philippino breakfast menus, as they had fresh options. In East Timor I really liked the fish grilled in banana leaves.

Q: How would you rate the friendliness level of the islanders? What kinds other travelers did you meet there?

Polynesian people, in my travels, have always been welcoming and friendly, open to questions, and easy to get along with. Many of the other travelers I met were NGO-types doing sports diplomacy, health directives, and UN workers, and Japanese tourists. A lot of the people I met at my hotels or in airports were people trying to get to the end of their countries list, like me.

Some local kids playing on the beach in East Timor

Q: So the conclusion of this trip brings you to how many countries left that you’d like to visit?

I have fifteen left on my United Nations list. Some are active war zones, while others are difficult to get a visa to, especially now that there’s a list of 44 countries that have travel restrictions to the United States. It’s likely those countries will make it harder for Americans to visit them as well.

Chris at Chuuk, visiting a Japanese gun emplacement from World War 2

Taxco, the silver capital of Mexico

Taxco Mexico main church

November is such a nice time of year to visit Mexico- beautiful weather, low crowds- so this year we decided to spend Thanksgiving break in Taxco, one of Mexico’s “Pueblo Magicos”, or Magic Towns. These charming small cities feature walkable city centers, historic churches and plazas, and plenty of delicious options to eat and drink.

Arriving at the Mexico City airport, there’s three easy ways to get to downtown, or to any of the main bus stations. You can hop in a taxi, take the Metrobus, or walk all the way down to Door One and access the subway. For 15 pesos (75¢ US) you can buy a metro card, and then each ride is 5 pesos (25¢). Two people can share one metro card. We transferred to the blue line’s last stop, the Tasqueño bus terminal. It’s a very nice, very modern bus terminal, and we found busses departing for Tasco every 90 minutes. 554 pesos later (approx $25 USD), we had two bus tickets on Costa Lines and were on our way.

We arrived in Taxco two and a half hours later and walked from the central bus station to our hotel, the Posada de San Javier ($65 per night for a king suite, with breakfast). The city of Taxco trails down the side of a mountain, so it doesn’t matter where you stay- everywhere you go is going to be a short but steep climb from your hotel or restaurant or the main zocalo. Just take it slow and steady, or hop in one of the ubiquitous VW taxis that constantly circle the plazas.

The stunning main feature of Taxco is the twin-spired baroque Church of Santa Pisca, built from 1751-1759. Everything else in the historic city can be found in relation to the church. Wanting to really relax on our trip, we spent four days in town and found ourselves lounging on rooftop terraces, enjoying coffees and chilaquiles in the mornings or hot chocolates and churros in the evenings. We spotted a few other gringo tourists in town, but the majority seemed to be visitors from other parts of Mexico or Latin America. Taxco feels safe, is easy to walk around, and has options to fit any budget.

The main plaza, or zocalo

Our favorite activities in Taxco:

  1. Take the cable car up to the Hotel Montetaxco and enjoy the view from their mirador, while sipping a juice cocktail. It costs 9 pesos to hop in a collectivo (combi) to reach the base of the teleferico. Round trip tickets on the cable car are 120 pesos, or you can take the cable car up and walk down.
  2. Visit the Pre-Historic Mine, located underneath the Hotel Posada de la Mision. Tickets are 180 pesos and come with a mezcal cocktail afterwards at the hotel bar. The tour is in Spanish but the guide translates parts of it.
  3. Visit the silversmith shops or workshops, pretty much all over the city. Look for the .925 or .950 stamp if you’re looking to buy, or just enjoy watching the sheer talent of the artisan workers.
  4. Eat pozole at any number of pozolerias (Tia Calle was very inexpensive, if not very atmospheric).
  5. Try the region’s pink rosa mole dish, made with rose petals and white chocolate. We enjoyed the dish at La Parroquia, which features balconies and a terrace overlooking the main zocalo. A perfect al fresco dinner spot.
  6. Plenty of places offer chocolate and churros, but we liked Chu Cho, nestled in Plazuela de Bernal, for their wide variety of toppings (try the marzipan!).
  7. Visit the Pozas Azules (blue swimming holes). You can take a full-day guided tour from one of the tour operators in town, or just walk to the main road and grab a combi heading out of town toward Acapulco (the stop is in front of the Coppell building). The combi costs 35 pesos, and entrance to the pools is 100 pesos.
  8. Tour the Spratling Pre-Hispaña Museum. Spratling put Taxco on the map in 1929 and made sure its pre-Hispanic culture would be preserved. This museum features his private collection of artifacts. Worth a visit, and only 75 pesos per person.
  9. For another beautiful view of the town, visit the Cristo Rey statue above the main plaza. It takes about 45 minutes to walk up there, or take a taxi for 80 pesos.
  10. Eat as much ice cream as possible. We liked the Crema y Nata Heladeria, tucked into the bend right at Plaza Del Convento. Delicious!

Have you been to Taxco, or another of the Pueblos Magicos in Mexico? What was your favorite part?

Beat the Heat with These Northern National Parks

Isle Royale National Park

Even though I’m from Texas, I try everything I can to get out of the insane southern heat each year. Last summer we visited Maine, Newfoundland, and Labrador. This year we decided to head to some of the US national parks up north in an attempt to find cooler temps.

Time to head north

As we crossed the Mackinac Bridge into Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, we felt the cool breeze coming off the Great Lakes, and knew we had arrived in “the north”. If you’ve never been to the UP, I highly suggest you take a few extra days and visit Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, as well as the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum. Those are two of my favorite tourist attractions up that way, and definitely worth a visit.

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore- do yourself a favor and do the boat ride!

The first park on our list was Isle Royale National Park– the least visited park in the continental US. As it is an island, you can only access Isle Royale from upper Michigan (from Houghton, by boat, or Copper Harbor, by boat or sea plane), or from upper Minnesota (from Grand Marais by seaplane, or Grand Portage, by boat). Whichever mode of transport you choose, make sure to book well in advance (at least a month), and be forewarned that although it’s a national park, the transport is private, and quite costly. Of course, bring your national parks pass if you have one for free entry, and our camping on the island was free as well.

Established as a national park in 1931 by Herbert Hoover, this gem is only accessible by boat or seaplane

From Pictured Rocks, we drove to Grand Portage, Minnesota, and took a 7:30 am ferry (stay at the nearby Grand Portage Lodge and Casino for an easy morning). By 9:30, we were getting dropped off at the island’s Windigo visitor center, and walked to the nearby Cottonwood Campground with our camping gear. It’s only 1/4 of a mile away, so you won’t have to lug your stuff too far. There are potable water spigots at the campgrounds, so don’t worry about extra water for all your days in the park. We lucked out and were able to get a small camping shelter rather than a tent site, which was nice, because Isle Royale is often rainy (and putting up or taking down a tent in the rain is no fun).

Feldtmann Lake Overlook hike, about six miles, definitely worth it

In our time on the island, we hiked, explored the Visitor Center, checked out the small store (they do have food there, including hot breakfast sandwiches, so you can supplement the camping food you need to bring), hiked some more, and looked for wildlife. Isle Royale has both moose and wolves, so visitors like to keep a sharp eye out. The Windigo side of the island only gets about 50 visitors a day, so it won’t take long to get to know your fellow campers and hikers and find out where they’ve spotted some wildlife.

We spotted four moose while we were on Isle Royale. They can be unpredictable, so keep your distance, and keep a tree between you and them (we have a good telephoto lens)

In addition to Windigo, you can visit the other end of the island, Rock Harbor. You can take a boat there (from Windigo or from the mainland), or you can do a multi-day hike of the 45 mile stretch. Rock Harbor also features a nice lodge and restaurant.

Boardwalks, bridges, and hiking trails connect various campgrounds on the island

Even in July, the temperatures on Isle Royale ranged from pleasantly sunny and warm low 70s, down to cool and rainy 45 at night. Bring lots of layers, bug spray, and waterproof bags. We had a spectacular sunny day, cool night, and rainy morning while we were there.

After ferrying back to Minnesota, we were only a few miles from the Canadian border. Just after crossing over we saw a wolf! Canada has the best wildlife!

Voyageurs National Park is only 4-5 hours west of Isle Royale, so we drove the Canadian route to get there, stopping at Thunder Bay and Kakabeka Falls along the way. I always love taking Canadian roads because of their beautiful scenery, and lack of advertising billboards. We spent a lovely evening at the Bay View Motel in Fort Frances, next to the delicious Harbourage Restaurant. At International Falls, we crossed back over to the US, and visited the Rainy Lake Visitor Center and then the Ash River Visitor Center.

Our 51st National Park together!

Spread across 210,000 acres, the star feature of Voyageurs National Park is the lakes, rivers, and inlets, so I’d highly recommend booking a NPS boat tour in advance, renting a kayak or canoe, or even staying on a houseboat nearby. There are also plenty of hiking trails and wildlife to view from land or from water, including beaver, otter, moose, and bears.

We actually saw this handsome fella about an hour after we left the park

Similar to Isle Royale, this northern national park features excellent weather in the summer. Temps while we were there ranged between 77 and sunny, down to about 60 during a rainstorm. Voyageurs does tend to be very buggy, so long pants, bug spray, and even a net hat might be a good investment if you plan to spend a few days here.

Bring your rain jacket too!

After Voyageurs, we had one more northern park on our list that we had not done yet. We passed into North Dakota, and after stopping at the Geographical Center of North America, we arrived at Theodore Roosevelt National Park.

We are soooo centered

Theodore Roosevelt National Park is spread across three distinct “units” (north, south, and Elkhorn, linked by the Little Missouri River), and we visited two. This park is 70,000 acres, and was designated a National Park in 1978- the only one named after a person! Roosevelt built a cabin at Elkhorn and lived there for several years, studying ranching, hunting, and conservation, before he became president in 1901.

Similar to the Badlands of the Dakotas, the rock formations here are shaped by erosion

The park has a semi-arid climate and features pronghorn, mustangs, elk, bison, bighorn sheep, prairie dogs, coyotes, cougars, and more. We almost crested 80 degrees while we were there, but some late afternoon cloud coverage kept us in the upper 70’s. Since it was 101 back home with a hurricane bearing down on our state, we were happy with 79 degrees and a light rain shower!

Wild buffalo roam the prairie in the park
You can visit several prairie dog towns and watch these cute critters at play!

Formed by layers of ash from volcanoes 65 million years ago, layered with sediment brought by wind, water, and freezing, the hills of the badlands can present really interesting striped colors and formations. Lazy rivers that have formed oxbow lakes meander along the prairie as well, growing rings of cottonwood trees along their banks. Fossils from a long-ago swamp in this area have revealed large clams, crocodiles, alligators, turtles, and champsosaurs.

Oxbow overlook

Exploring our national parks is a fun pastime for us. We love getting out in nature, taking a hike, watching for wildlife. Learning about the history and geography of each area is fascinating too. Each park has its own unique setting to enjoy and partake in. Which national parks have you visited? What was your favorite? Leave us a comment.

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Hiking the Continental Divide Trail (New Mexico)

This past month, one half of the Palm Tree Musings duo started a section hike of the Continental Divide Trail. Having previously completed a through-hike of both the Appalachian Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail, Chris decided to try a section hike for this next adventure. Here’s the particulars of the first 400 miles, all of which are in the New Mexico section of the 3200 total miles of the trail, which spans five states.

Getting Started

Chris started his hike at the Mexico/New Mexico border near Hachita on April 23. To get there, he took a Greyhound Bus to Lordsburg, New Mexico, and then arranged for a hiker shuttle to the starting monument, as well as a couple of water caches in the desert. Over the next week, he and his hiking partner Piñata hiked across flat desert and arid mountains to get back to Lordsburg, where I met them for a day or two of rest and relaxation in Silver City.

Long Haul and Piñata, at the start of their hike
Chris’s new ultra-light tent
Some parts of the trail are paved, some are dirt roads, and some are barely-there paths through the mountains

The Trail Town of Silver City

Silver City is a fun trail town to visit and take a zero day (Lordsburg is not). The main street of town features a dozen or so restaurants and bars, as well as a grocery, a small museum, several vintage thrift shops, and other fun things to explore. There are several motels, Airbnbs, and hostels in town, and pretty much any day in April or May you’ll see other hikers in town resting up. Silver City Post Office and Urgent Care Clinic are easily accessible and had great customer service (we visited both). The three of us enjoyed our Airbnb, trivia night at the Little Toad Creek Brewery, and a visit to the nearby Gila Cliffs National Monument. It was a welcome rest from the trail, as well as our anniversary (the third we’ve spent on a long distance hike) and then the hikers were off again, heading north.

Meeting my hikers just outside of Lordsburg
An afternoon at the Gila Cliffs National Monument
Resupplying from the grocery store and loading up for the next stretch

Silver City to Grant’s Pass

Sufficiently rested up, Long Haul and Piñata continued their hike, which they were planning to end around Albuquerque. They hiked through the Gila National Forest, crossing the Gila River dozens of times. Near the Cliffs National Monument, they rested a day at Doc Campbell’s Post, a hiker-friendly respite near some hot springs. From there they continued north, sleeping on the trail and hiking 20-25 mile days. The weather was getting warmer, and they often started at 6 am, stopping in the afternoon under a tree for a siesta in the hottest part of the day, then continuing for some more miles in the evening. Chris and Piñata stopped for a night in Reserve, and were able to get a shower and a rest at The Frisco Lodging and RV Park. Refreshed, they got back on the trail, but were met with some rain and even some hail near Alegres Mountain. Happily, they found a hiker’s lean-to nearby, and were able to shelter out of the weather. They dried out at the Toaster Hostel in Pie Town (which does, in fact, have two places to get pie), and then pushed on for their last leg of this section. They arrived in Grant, New Mexico, on May 19, 27 days after they started their hike. From there, a quick bus ride to Albuquerque, and they were back to civilization, no longer hikers, and ready to start planning their next section hike. Stay tuned for more information on that!

Crossing the Gila River
Any shelter will help when a storm rolls in
Official end point to this section of their hike

Have you hiked the Continental Divide Trail? Drop your best trail hints below.