Beat the Heat with These Northern National Parks

Isle Royale National Park

Even though I’m from Texas, I try everything I can to get out of the insane southern heat each year. Last summer we visited Maine, Newfoundland, and Labrador. This year we decided to head to some of the US national parks up north in an attempt to find cooler temps.

Time to head north

As we crossed the Mackinac Bridge into Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, we felt the cool breeze coming off the Great Lakes, and knew we had arrived in “the north”. If you’ve never been to the UP, I highly suggest you take a few extra days and visit Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, as well as the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum. Those are two of my favorite tourist attractions up that way, and definitely worth a visit.

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore- do yourself a favor and do the boat ride!

The first park on our list was Isle Royale National Park– the least visited park in the continental US. As it is an island, you can only access Isle Royale from upper Michigan (from Houghton, by boat, or Copper Harbor, by boat or sea plane), or from upper Minnesota (from Grand Marais by seaplane, or Grand Portage, by boat). Whichever mode of transport you choose, make sure to book well in advance (at least a month), and be forewarned that although it’s a national park, the transport is private, and quite costly. Of course, bring your national parks pass if you have one for free entry, and our camping on the island was free as well.

Established as a national park in 1931 by Herbert Hoover, this gem is only accessible by boat or seaplane

From Pictured Rocks, we drove to Grand Portage, Minnesota, and took a 7:30 am ferry (stay at the nearby Grand Portage Lodge and Casino for an easy morning). By 9:30, we were getting dropped off at the island’s Windigo visitor center, and walked to the nearby Cottonwood Campground with our camping gear. It’s only 1/4 of a mile away, so you won’t have to lug your stuff too far. There are potable water spigots at the campgrounds, so don’t worry about extra water for all your days in the park. We lucked out and were able to get a small camping shelter rather than a tent site, which was nice, because Isle Royale is often rainy (and putting up or taking down a tent in the rain is no fun).

Feldtmann Lake Overlook hike, about six miles, definitely worth it

In our time on the island, we hiked, explored the Visitor Center, checked out the small store (they do have food there, including hot breakfast sandwiches, so you can supplement the camping food you need to bring), hiked some more, and looked for wildlife. Isle Royale has both moose and wolves, so visitors like to keep a sharp eye out. The Windigo side of the island only gets about 50 visitors a day, so it won’t take long to get to know your fellow campers and hikers and find out where they’ve spotted some wildlife.

We spotted four moose while we were on Isle Royale. They can be unpredictable, so keep your distance, and keep a tree between you and them (we have a good telephoto lens)

In addition to Windigo, you can visit the other end of the island, Rock Harbor. You can take a boat there (from Windigo or from the mainland), or you can do a multi-day hike of the 45 mile stretch. Rock Harbor also features a nice lodge and restaurant.

Boardwalks, bridges, and hiking trails connect various campgrounds on the island

Even in July, the temperatures on Isle Royale ranged from pleasantly sunny and warm low 70s, down to cool and rainy 45 at night. Bring lots of layers, bug spray, and waterproof bags. We had a spectacular sunny day, cool night, and rainy morning while we were there.

After ferrying back to Minnesota, we were only a few miles from the Canadian border. Just after crossing over we saw a wolf! Canada has the best wildlife!

Voyageurs National Park is only 4-5 hours west of Isle Royale, so we drove the Canadian route to get there, stopping at Thunder Bay and Kakabeka Falls along the way. I always love taking Canadian roads because of their beautiful scenery, and lack of advertising billboards. We spent a lovely evening at the Bay View Motel in Fort Frances, next to the delicious Harbourage Restaurant. At International Falls, we crossed back over to the US, and visited the Rainy Lake Visitor Center and then the Ash River Visitor Center.

Our 51st National Park together!

Spread across 210,000 acres, the star feature of Voyageurs National Park is the lakes, rivers, and inlets, so I’d highly recommend booking a NPS boat tour in advance, renting a kayak or canoe, or even staying on a houseboat nearby. There are also plenty of hiking trails and wildlife to view from land or from water, including beaver, otter, moose, and bears.

We actually saw this handsome fella about an hour after we left the park

Similar to Isle Royale, this northern national park features excellent weather in the summer. Temps while we were there ranged between 77 and sunny, down to about 60 during a rainstorm. Voyageurs does tend to be very buggy, so long pants, bug spray, and even a net hat might be a good investment if you plan to spend a few days here.

Bring your rain jacket too!

After Voyageurs, we had one more northern park on our list that we had not done yet. We passed into North Dakota, and after stopping at the Geographical Center of North America, we arrived at Theodore Roosevelt National Park.

We are soooo centered

Theodore Roosevelt National Park is spread across three distinct “units” (north, south, and Elkhorn, linked by the Little Missouri River), and we visited two. This park is 70,000 acres, and was designated a National Park in 1978- the only one named after a person! Roosevelt built a cabin at Elkhorn and lived there for several years, studying ranching, hunting, and conservation, before he became president in 1901.

Similar to the Badlands of the Dakotas, the rock formations here are shaped by erosion

The park has a semi-arid climate and features pronghorn, mustangs, elk, bison, bighorn sheep, prairie dogs, coyotes, cougars, and more. We almost crested 80 degrees while we were there, but some late afternoon cloud coverage kept us in the upper 70’s. Since it was 101 back home with a hurricane bearing down on our state, we were happy with 79 degrees and a light rain shower!

Wild buffalo roam the prairie in the park
You can visit several prairie dog towns and watch these cute critters at play!

Formed by layers of ash from volcanoes 65 million years ago, layered with sediment brought by wind, water, and freezing, the hills of the badlands can present really interesting striped colors and formations. Lazy rivers that have formed oxbow lakes meander along the prairie as well, growing rings of cottonwood trees along their banks. Fossils from a long-ago swamp in this area have revealed large clams, crocodiles, alligators, turtles, and champsosaurs.

Oxbow overlook

Exploring our national parks is a fun pastime for us. We love getting out in nature, taking a hike, watching for wildlife. Learning about the history and geography of each area is fascinating too. Each park has its own unique setting to enjoy and partake in. Which national parks have you visited? What was your favorite? Leave us a comment.

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Road Trip Week One: Ohio, Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota

House on the Rock Wisconsin Spring Green

We gave the house keys to the realtor and Chris carried me over the threshold from our first home to our new life on the road. The first weekend we camped fairly close to home, making sure we had all the equipment we needed and didn’t need to stop by the storage unit and grab anything, and we also took the opportunity for a digital detox. For four days our phones were locked in the glovebox and we were able to connect with nature and each other with no distractions.

Farewell to Southgate Square!

Getting to know our camp set up

Then, confident we had everything we needed for whatever adventures lay ahead of us (and with a lot of extra stuff in the car that we immediately started ditching), we hopped on the Pennsylvania turnpike and headed west. We made it to Ohio and stayed the night in Toledo- a new state for me! Eager to see more, we headed to Michigan the next morning.

Ready for some car camping

Our first “real” stop was Kalamazoo, Michigan. Mainly just because it has a funny name, we had always wanted to visit. Because we both like beer, we went to the Kalamazoo Beer Exchange- a very cool building (used to be a coffin factory) with a fun theme- based on the stock market, the prices of the beer fluctuate all evening and randomly, there will be a  “market crash” and you can buy low! We visited the Kalamazoo Valley Museum, a free 3-story museum with lots of fun to see and explore. We wound up spending a couple of hours there, and really enjoyed it. Then we walked along the downtown pedestrian mall- the first in America!- and picked up some “Yes, there really is a Kalamazoo!” postcards.

This is Kalamazoo

Rain was coming so we drove a couple more hours to Cadillac Lake in the Huron-Manistee National Forest and stayed in a lakeside motel there, enjoying a walk through a state park and a visit to a produce stand and a pasties shop, which made a delicious dinner. We spent the night and then we were back on the road and headed for the UP! We stopped to stretch our legs at the Mackinac Bridge and Light House before venturing over the bridge- the longest single-anchorage bridge in America- that connects lower Michigan to the Upper Peninsula.

Mackinac Lighthouse

“Big Mac”

Once in the Upper Peninsula we went to the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum, at the very tip of the juncture where Lake Superior meets Lake Huron (so far north, AT&T thinks we were in Canada and charged me overages). With over 500 shipwrecks and 3,000 lives lost, there was a lot to explore at this museum including a video about and the bell from the wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald (cue the Gordon Lightfoot here). Chris climbed the lighthouse to watch ships passing through the straits.

We drove through the Hiawatha National Forest, and spent the night at a riverside campground off of Lake Michigan. Not bad for $15, although the mosquitos seemed as big as eagles and made making dinner a chore. However, the night was clear and we were able to sleep without the fly on the tent up and it was a beautiful night.

A clear night for camping

Escanaba River, Michigan

We headed south to Wisconsin and the big attraction there- for us- was Spring Green, home to both Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin and The House on the Rock, which we had both read about in the Neil Gaiman book “American Gods” (currently filming season 2, which actually takes place at the House on the Rock). Thankfully we arrived around 1 pm, and had a full four hours to explore this indescribable attraction. Part architecturally amazing house built on an actual rock (with parts of the rock both inside and outside the house), it is also filled with collections of such oddities I could not even begin to list them. That’s just the first part.

It gets a little weirder with the cantilevered “Infinity Room”, jutting out 218 unsupported feet.

Parts 2 and 3 consist not only “Streets of Yesterday” and “Heritage of the Sea” buildings, there were also huge rooms full of collectibles, models, artwork, toys, games, and – the most amazing bits – full size mechanized orchestras of dolls, skeletons, mannequins- and– most famously- not one but two giant carousels (one of which is the largest in America, and boasts 182 chandeliers). Words defy me here- you just have to see it on your own. Imagine Alice in Wonderland after eating the entire bottle of pills. I’ll leave it at that.

This sea creature is larger than the Statue of Liberty.

Over 200 unique animals on the carousel- not a single horse

Not even sure what this is- steampunk maybe?

With a quick spin to the Frank Lloyd Wright visitor center– they were about to close- and a drive-by of Taliesin, we continued west to La Crosse, a cute college town on the eastern bank of the Mississippi River. We enjoyed a beer and a taco pizza at Sloopy’s Alma Mater, which of course came with fried cheese curds- delicious. It was everything you would expect of a local bar in Wisconsin, complete with a stranger buying us a beer.

We didn’t have any plans for Minnesota except to drive through it to get to South Dakota, so we just made it a straight drive with a stop for lunch. We were hoping for some real Minnesota dishes (I had read “Kitchens of the Great Mid-West” with my book club”) and we were not disappointed with Grandma’s Kitchen, which featured a chicken salad made with chicken, mayo, cool whip, and grapes, with a rootbeer float.

Minnesota

And so we continue. Our next update will feature South Dakota, Wyoming, and Montana, so stay tuned for another post before we head into Canada and then Alaska.

Any suggestions for Wyoming or Montana? Drop them here!