Interview with Chris: Navigating the South Pacific

It’s been a while since our fearless traveler, Chris, the other half of Palm Tree Musings, took a trip by himself. On this journey he started off with me (Deah), in Hawaii, and then visited Samoa, Tonga, Vanuatu, Fiji and Tuvalu on his own. Here are a few questions and answers about his trip.

1. Why’d you leave your wife behind?

I asked her to go in this trip, but she refused. I think she’s tired of islands, plus she hates long plane rides. I did finally talk her into coming with me as far as Hawaii, though, and we spent ten days there. Then she was happy to spend some time at home by herself, a little stay-cation.

Ready to venture fearlessly alone

2. Why did you pick these 4 nations for this trip?

I only have 23 countries to visit in the world left, but a few are active war zones and a few have visa issues. So I figured I’d better get these while I have the time. It’s tough getting all the way out to this area of the world, and you have to allow a little bit of extra time, because the flights are sometimes unreliable and can really domino into a problem if there’s a cancellation or delay.

If you’re looking for almost-deserted beaches, Tonga is a great place to start

3. Did you have any trouble like that on this trip?

Yes, my plane leaving Vanuatu was cancelled due to mechanical issues, and that airline doesn’t have any backup planes. That put me returning to Fiji much later than I planned, endangering my connection to Tuvalu. I had to do a wild cab ride from Nadi to Suva, Fiji at break-neck speed, at high cost, but it turned out all right. A few other travelers were in a similar position. You have to be pro-active to make sure an issue gets fixed in time.

4. You visited both Samoa and American Somoa. Any differences between the islands?

I found the culture on both to be about the same. People commute between the islands frequently because of family ties. There are several small flights a day, as well as a ferry once a week. There is a National Park on the US side, and you can use US dollars there. The international date line runs between the two.

Somoa

5. The low-lying island of Tuvalu is quite threatened by climate change and sea level rise. Did you discuss the topic with any islanders, or see evidence of concern while you were there?

I talked to several islanders that brought it up. Some of them had friends or family that have already migrated to Australia, New Zealand, or the US to avoid sea-level problems in the future. It’s definitely present in the minds of the islanders, as they look to preserve their culture if not their home island. Also they are seeing the coral reefs start to die off as the waters warm.

6. While you were on Tonga, you probably ate a lot of fish. What other foods are popular there?

A lot of starches, like ramen noodles and roots and tubers such as taro and cassava, potatoes and yams. On Sundays everything is closed so you’d better go to a shop the day before and buy some instant noodles and tuna. Of course there’s fish all day, every day. I went on a boat trip and the guy caught a fish and used his knife to fillet it right there- the freshest sushi I’ve ever had. Red meat is much harder to come by.

Extremely fresh fish, with taro, cassava, yam, and corn. A typical meal in these islands.

7. Vanuatu and Fiji are part of Melanesia, while Tonga, Tuvalu, and Samoa are Polynesian in culture. What’s the main difference?

It’s mainly a difference of geography, but there are some cultural and historical differences as well. Polynesia spans from Hawaii to New Zealand, and as far east as Easter Island. Melanesia is north of Australia, and north of that is Micronesia. Melanesia sort of encompasses the “Ring of Fire”, so volcanic islands with high cliffs and eroding volcanos. Polynesian islands are flatter, with more coral reefs. The volcanic activity there was much older, forming atolls, which are made by ancient volcanoes that collapsed back into the sea. Culturally, the Polynesians came from SE Asia, while Micronesians are descended from indigenous islanders. The Polynesians were seafarers and knew how to navigate by the stars.

8. I know you love scuba diving, so did you get a chance to dive on this trip?

Yes, I dove with Big Blue Vanuatu. They visit several reefs and wrecks around the atoll. I really enjoyed diving “the cathedral”, an underwater cave with an open roof. If you’re staying in or near Port Vila, I recommend them.

9. What’s the hardest thing about planning a trip like this?

You have to plan a lot of one-way and return-trip flights on a variety of airlines. It’s helpful to have some airline miles with some of the big ones like American Airlines, Fiji Airways, or Hawaiian Airlines. You’re also crossing the international date line several times, so it’s easy to get confused while you’re booking flights. I found that making a mind map helped me.

10. What is next in your travel plans?

After hiking both the Appalachian Trail and Pacific Crest Trail, I’m ready to start the Continental Divide Trail. Hopefully Deah will provide support for that, as she did on my other hikes. Also I’m hoping we can both go to Western Australia this summer, making a few stops at Palau, Micronesia, and Solomon Islands along the way.

Thanks Chris for showing us the Pacific Islands, and answering these questions!

Repositioning Cruise to Australia

Upon the advice of some friends, we looked into a repositioning cruise to start our world trip.  As luck would have it, we found one leaving around the same time that we wanted to travel, going from LA to Sydney, Australia.  So we figured we’d start our journey there and eventually work our way back.

After staying with family for three days in California, we boarded the Carnival Legend in Long Beach and immediately set sail for Puerta Vallarta, Mexico.  We enjoyed a day of walking around the Malecon and downtown areas, stopping for cervezas and ceviche when we got too hot.

Then out to sea for a week.  We skirted tropical storm Norbert, and crossed the equator.  Eventually we landed in Tahiti, the capital of French Polynesia.  We teamed up with another couple, Kirk and Tricia, and rented a taxi for the day and had a great 7 hour tour.  Lots of Captain Cook history, beautiful surf spots, and tropical vistas.  The next day we docked at Moorea, an island just 14 miles away, and enjoyed a lovely second day in Paradise (French Polynesia).  We took a small minibus tour and visited some Polynesian temple sites, a look out at the harbor, and a fruit juice plantation.  Then we got dropped off at the local beach and enjoyed the crystal clear water.  And our last day in French Polynesia was at Bora Bora. Instead of a tour, we decided to just relax at the Hotel Intercontinental beach and gaze at their fabulous over-the-water-bungalows.  And sample tasty tropical rum drinks.  Amazing.

Back to the boat, and another few days at sea, crossing the international date line- we completely skipped the 15th of September!  We docked at Suva, Fiji, on a day when they were having elections for the first time since a military coup.  Luckily we were able to still do a short tour, to a village, an eco resort, and a waterfall.  Most of the downtown capital city was closed for elections, but we got a feel for the place.

Fiji Waterfall
Fiji Waterfall

After International Pirates Day (a very fun party on the boat), we landed at Noumea, New Caledonia.  Part of France, they are supposed to get independence in 2 1/2 years… but 1/3 of the world’s nickel comes from Noumea, so I wonder how that is going to go.  We visited their extremely cool architectural cultural center, and visited a lookout and a church, had some food, and enjoyed our day there. In the capital they had a monument to the US for their help in World War II.  We sampled their local beer (Number 1!) and then it was time to get back on the boat.

Tchabau Cultural Center, New Caledonia
Tchabau Cultural Center, New Caledonia

We enjoyed our cruise very much.  We took dance classes each day, attended a few art classes (bought two paintings at an auction!), used the gym, swam in the the pools, and ate our weight in all kinds of food.  It was certainly a relaxing way to get to Australia. I’m glad we chose that as a way to start our journey.

Sydney Harbor and Opera House Australia
Sydney Harbor and Opera House

Next post: Australia.