Chris Hikes the AT – PalmTreeMusings

Appalachian Trail: Massachusetts, Vermont, and New Hampshire

August 1, 2014March 20, 2022Posted in North AmericaTagged Appalachian Trail, Appalachian Trail Massachusetts, Appalachian Trail New Hampshire, Appalachian Trail Vermont, best things to do in, Chris Hikes the AT, hiking, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, travel, travel blog, Vermont1 Comment

Hiker at Mt Moosilauke New Hampshire Appalachian Trail

While Chris hiked the 90 miles of the trail that are in Massachusetts, I drove back to the DC area and got our house ready for our new renters. And then the day arrived: the packers came and put our stuff in a moving van, and now we are homeless. After one last book club with my lady friends, I was off to join Chris in Vermont, for the last 500 miles of the trail. And when I say “join him”, I mean “drive the car around and see stuff while he hikes, and arrange food and lodging and sightseeing for the days/nights he’s not on the trail”.

pink flowers on Appalachian Trail in Vermont — The beauty of the Appalachian Trail

bridge and stream along appalachian trail new hampshire — The beauty of the Appalachian Trail

I caught up to him in Rutland, VT: wow, what a green, fresh smelling state! We stealth-camped right by the trail in a beautiful setting by a brook up the side of a mountain. (Stealth camping is camping at spots along the AT that are not paid campgrounds or designated shelters. Just nice flat spots that you can pitch a tent. Free!). It got cold that night: Down in the 40’s. But luckily summer seemed to catch up with us over the next week and it was quite nice.

Couple at Thunder Falls Vermont — Enjoying the fresh air and catching up with this guy

Vermont Farm scene — Enjoying the fresh air and catching up with this guy

I followed/stalked Chris for all of Vermont and New Hampshire, sometimes hiking a mile or two in the mornings when I drop him off at the trailhead, sometimes camping with him on the trail, sometimes getting us hotels or hiker hostels, and sometimes getting myself a place to sleep alone while he overnighted in a stretch of the trail that had no road access for me to come get him. During the day I stopped at cool sites, shuttled other hiker friends around, had lunches and dinners with new trail friends, rented bikes, kayaks, etc. I loved the rolling hills and mountains of Vermont and the lovely farmlands and vistas.

Group eating at restaurant — Long Haul Trucker, Trail Bunny, Naked Ninja, Dr Zoon, Rosie, and Mobius

hikers atop rocks on Appalachian Trail New Hampshire — Long Haul Trucker, Trail Bunny, Naked Ninja, Dr Zoon, Rosie, and Mobius

New Hampshire has been brutal. They don’t call it the Granite State for nothing! It is often said that NH and Maine are the toughest states on the trail. In New Hampshire we encountered the White Mountains. Though lovely, they are a bitch to climb up and down, continually, day after day. The NoBos (northbounders, or what is left of them) are worn down, and we are just starting to see the first SoBos, starting down from Maine in early July and hoping to finish by Thanksgiving. Directly after the White Mountains were the Presidential Peaks, culminating in Mt Washington, the 2nd highest peak on the AT. It was a brutal 2 day climb, but luckily I was able to take the auto road to the top and pick up backpacks from Chris and his friends, so the could “slack pack” the descent with only a small day bag. They were much appreciative.

Hiker at Long Trail Vermont sign Appalachian Trail — Welcome to Vermont

The Basin Franconia Ridge New Hampshire Appalachian Trail — The Basin, Franconia Ridge, NH

A shout out to our trail friends: DaVinci, Mobius, Midnight Sparkle, Naked Ninja, Rosie, Dr Zoom, Grasshopper, Trip, and Geared Up. You all are doing GREAT!! 13 states done. Next up: Maine!

Hiking the Appalachian Trail through Pennsylvania, New York, and Connecticut

July 26, 2014March 20, 2022Posted in North AmericaTagged Appalachian Trail, Appalachian Trail Connecticut, Appalachian Trail Maryland, Appalachian Trail New York, Appalachian Trail Rhode Island, best things to do in, Chris Hikes the AT, Connecticut, Harpers Ferry, New York, Pennsylvania, travel, travel blogLeave a comment

After a somewhat restful four days at home, Chris was back on the trail and heading north from Harpers Ferry. After a quick jaunt through Maryland, Chris and his son Mike reached Pennsylvania, where in a rocky patch of boulders, Chris sprained his ankle. He rested for a day, hobbled into the next town of Palmerton, where hikers are allowed to sleep in the basement of the jail for free. He rested there, then kept going, even with a badly sprained ankle.

couple standing in front of Cabella's canoe in Pennsylvania — Restocking supplies in Pennsylvania

hiker standing on rock outcrop in Pennsylvania — Restocking supplies in Pennsylvania

Hikers in front of Boiling Springs Tavern sign Pennsylvania Appalachian Trail — From Trail Town to Trail

Appalachian Trail sign nailed to tree Connecticut Maine to George — From Trail Town to Trail

My friend Ann and I were able to visit Chris and Mike near Hamburg, and then they crossed over into New York. Chris saw a bear- on the same day that he could see the NYC skyline from the trail. Pretty cool. Near Bear Mountain, hikers can go through the Trailside Zoo for free, and see lots of animals. And not far from there, hikers can sleep for free at the Graymoor Spiritual Center, a monastery.

hiker in front of United States Post Office Unionville New York sign — Chris reaches New York

bear in the woods appalachian trail — Chris reaches New York

Eventually, New York gave way to Connecticut, and Mike went home and I came to visit. Still sore in the ankle, Chris wanted a couple of days off the trail, so we explored a bit of Connecticut and Rhode Island. We went down to Mystic Seaport, ate pizza at Mystic Pizza, and looked at the ships there. Then over to Rhode Island to visit Naragansett for lunch at Iggys Chowder House, and some beach time at Misquamicut Beach. Except the ocean was freezing so we never got in!

exterior of Mystic Pizza Connecticut — Mystic Pizza

couple laying on beach in Rhode Island — Mystic Pizza

But eventually we had to get back on the trail. I camped with Chris at Housatonic Meadows State Park, and then he headed north. Just 722 miles to go!

Campsite in Connecticut near Appalachian Trail — Luxury camping- except I learned that a queen sized air mattress will NOT fit in this tent.

Next post: Massachusetts, Vermont, and New Hampshire!

Appalachian Trail: Virginia and West Virginia

May 30, 2014May 19, 2023Posted in hiking, North AmericaTagged Appalachian Trail, Appalachian Trail Halfway, Appalachian Trail Virginia, Appalachian Trail West Virginia, best things to do in, Chris Hikes the AT, travel, travel blog, Virginia, West VirginiaLeave a comment

Hiker faces a row of mountains on the appalachian trail

Chris has been joined on the Appalachian Trail by his son for the past 140 miles or so. This week they reached Harper’s Ferry, West Virginia, which is essentially halfway for Chris. This part of the trail is very close to our house in northern Virginia, so I was able to go pick them up and bring them home so they could each do a few days of administrative tasks. His son has just been accepted to college so there is lots of paperwork involved in that, and Chris needed to pack up his closet and office in preparation for our move coming up. And, happily, I was able to get pictures off of both their cameras and post some images from this section of the trail. Today after work I’ll be driving them back out to Harper’s Ferry, and they will continue their hike north. Mike hopes to get 500 miles in on the trail, and I will meet up with Chris in June after I finish this school year.

Harper's Ferry Potomac River — The Potomac River

Hiker at Virginia West Virginia State line appalachian trail — The Potomac River

Hiker on rock outcropping Appalachian Trail Virginia — Life along the Appalachian Trail

Appalachian Trail: From North Carolina to Southern Virginia

May 6, 2014May 19, 2023Posted in hiking, North AmericaTagged Appalachian Trail, best things to do in, Chris Hikes the AT, hiker, North Carolina Appalachian Trail, Tennessee Appalachian Trail, travel, travel blog, Virginia, Virginia Appalachian Trail, woods hole hostelLeave a comment

After another beautiful drive, this time in my convertible to really enjoy the springtime in Virginia, I met up with Chris to take a zero day off the trail together. He was at mile 620, just short of Pearisburg, Virginia. After Trailfest in Hot Springs North Carolina, I saw him one week later at Elk Park, North Carolina. Since then, he had left North Carolina and Tennessee, and made it into southern Virginia.

rainbow tent opening north caroline appalachian trail — Sun’s coming out

frosted trees appalachian trail tennessee clingman's dome — Sun’s coming out

Along the way, Chris hiked alone on some days, and with other hikers at times. He has seen wild horses, beautiful sunrises, some snowy weather, and some warm afternoons. In my two previous visits to see him in trail towns, I’ve been able to meet some of the hikers as well and hear their stories.

hiker at Tennessee Virginia state line sign appalachian trail — Chris reaches Virginia

hiker on bridge over river appalachian trail tennessee — Chris reaches Virginia

In southern Virginia, I met him at Wood’s Hole Hostel, which is a magical place and one that I am so glad I found. A 2-story cabin in the woods, plus a hiker bunkhouse, great food, and lots of community spirit. It’s a bit off the grid so we didn’t have to worry about emails or phone calls all weekend. The owners, Neville and Michael, have run the place for the last 10 years or so, after inheriting the hostel from her grandparents, who ran the place from the 1940’s on. Each morning we had a huge, filling breakfast, with three helpers volunteering to help cook the meal, three more serving, and three more cleaning up. Peach oatmeal crisp, eggs with bacon, and fresh bread with applebutter.

Pearisburg barn and house at Wood's Hole Hostel Appalachian Trail Virginia — Wood’s Hole Hostel

Pearisburg labeled spice jars in a country kitchen wood's hole hostel appalachian trail virginia — Wood’s Hole Hostel

Throughout the day there was yoga, meditation, hiking, and generally lazing about, until it was time for dinner prep- the first night we had tortillas, rice, beans, corn, ground beef, salsa, sour cream, salad, and fresh bread. Again, three helpers made feeding an army of 22 hikers that much easier. Luckily I had booked ahead so Chris and I had a private room in the main cabin- no hiker bunkhouse for me! We had a lot to celebrate, so I brought a bottle of wine and we toasted Chris’s birthday, our wedding anniversary, and him finishing almost 1/3 of the Appalachian Trail. Overall the weekend was amazing and I hope one day to go back to Wood’s Hole Hostel- but maybe next time, I’ll go when it’s not hiking season!

bear bag hanging from tree appalachian trail north caroline — Bear Bagging

mountains, rivers, trees on appalachian trail tennessee — Bear Bagging

farm and fence in virginia — Virginia Farm Country

hiker using laptop at cafe — Virginia Farm Country

Appalachian Trail: Trailfest at Hot Springs North Carolina

April 12, 2014May 19, 2023Posted in hiking, North AmericaTagged Appalachian Trail, best things to do in, Chris Hikes the AT, hiking, hot springs, north carolina, Trailfest North Carolina, travel, travel blogLeave a comment

I arrived in Hot Springs, North Carolina, around 2 pm on a Saturday in April. I knew Chris had camped the night before at mile 253, so he’d have to hike 20 miles to get to Hot Springs. I figured he’d get in around 5. So that gave me a couple of hours to walk around town, check out the Trailfest Weekend going on in town, and explore the crazy 170 year old inn we were staying at. It’s a beautiful house with crazy rooms, sweeping staircases, slanting floors, and wrap around porches on both floors. Owned by a 3-time thru-hiker, it’s $20 a night for hikers. What a deal.

hiker tent and poles appalachian trail north caroline — Striking camp for the day

hiker at North Carolina Georgia state sign appalachian trail — Striking camp for the day

The inn, built in 1840, was later used during World War I as a boarding house for wives of the German officers who were being held as prisoners of war across town (three blocks away) at the Mountain Park Hotel, next to the mineral springs. Later, the house was a boardinghouse for teachers who worked at the Dorland-Bell Institute, a school for Appalachian girls.

AT appalachian trail sign on sidewalk — AT sign in Hot Springs

hot springs north carolina trailfest appalachian trail — AT sign in Hot Springs

Chris came limping into town at 5:20 and after showering and changing, we walked through the town. He was so happy to grab a beer, some salad greens, and hot wings and sit on the patio of the Quarter House Tavern, overlooking the French Broad River. He told me about his hike- some rain, some wind, ice chunks and heavy frost, but no snow. He saw one bear north of Clingmans Dome and some cool birds, two deer, and lots of hikers. In town we ran into Indiana, Rhode Island Red, and Admiral Caboose, all thru-hikers he had met on the trail in the past two weeks. After dinner a band played on the patio and it was a very relaxing evening.

sunrise meadow mountains appalachian trail north carolina — Ready to start the day

Hiker at waterfall along appalachian trail north carolina — Ready to start the day

On Sunday we walked around Hot Springs, had a delightful pancake breakfast with a bunch of hikers, and visited the Hot Springs spa. On the banks of the French Broad River, the spa has a dozen outdoor hot tubs, enclosed on 3 sides by a gazebo, fed by the hot mineral springs themselves. The open side looks out over the river and it was a lovely long soak and a pleasant way to spend an hour. In fact, we enjoyed it so much we went back the next day for another. After a “Hungry Hiker skillet” breakfast and a long soak, Chris got back on the AT to make his way 120 miles to Elk Park NC, where I will see him next Sunday.