Sudan: Whirling Dervishes and Pyramids at Merowe

girl reading guidebook in desert in sudan

Last week we went to the mausoleum in Omdurman (which is on the other side of the Nile River from Khartoum) that houses the resting place of Hamad Al Nil, a 19th century Sufi Muslim leader.  Every Friday night at his resting place, crowds of Sudanese pilgrims gather and make their sunset prayers.  Women often pray to the ascetic leader’s bones and pray for a blessing, especially to cure illness.

In addition to the women that visit the mausoleum to pray, a sect of Sufist Muslims (males only) gather to chant and beat their drums in a type of ritualistic worship.  Sufism is a form of Islam that believes in purifying the soul to find inner peace.  One way they purify their souls is to chant until they reach a physical ecstasy and they begin to dance and whirl around the circle, often on one foot.  While most Sudanese men wear white robes on Sundays, the Sufists are easy to find because they tend to wear green and red robes.  Some of the members of the sect are called simply “the poor”, and they spend their whole lives on the compound of the tomb of Al Nil, owning no possessions but the clothes on their backs, which are a colorful combination of patchwork cloths.

man in patchwork robes at whirling dervishes in sudan khartoum tomb of amad al nile

At the end of the ceremony, an elder walks around the circle with burning incense, a mixture of frankincense and gum arabic, and blesses the chanters and the crowds that gather.  On the week that we went, there were about 300 Sudanese gathered, and perhaps 30 western visitors who had heard of the ritual and went to watch.

The following weekend, Chris and I drove out to the pyramids at Meroe, also sometimes written as Merowe.  Merowe was the capital of the Nubian kingdom (also called the Kushites) from about 300 bc to 300 ad.  The city of Merowe is only about three hours north of the Sudan’s capital Khartoum.  We went to three different sites of pyramids.  Surprisingly, there are actually more pyramids in Sudan than there are in Egypt, although the ones here are smaller height and a smaller base, but rising at a much steeper angle.  When we arrived at the first site, some guides with camels offered to show us around, so we gladly took them up on their offer!  Later in the day we drove to another site called Naqa, and saw the Temple of Ammun and the Temple of the Lion.  Finally, we ended up at Musawwarat es-Sufra and saw the ruins of a large building called the Great Enclosure, which is believed to be a building where the Nubians captured and trained elephants.

A Layover In Dubai

Deah in Dubai
Dubai Hotel
Dubai hotel

Hello, everyone! I am in transiting through Dubai and feeling a lot better after getting some sleep. For some unknown reason, I can’t seem to sleep on planes, even after taking sleeping pills. So this flight was pretty bad for me. It was fourteen hours. The first five weren’t so bad and the last five weren’t so bad, but the four in the middle just about killed me. Only me and about four others were awake and we kept congregating in the back to talk and kill time. On the plus side I did get to watch 4 different movies, 5 episodes of 30Rock, and 5 episodes of 2 and a Half Men. Comedy really helps on long flights!

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Safari time! Botswana, Zimbabwe, South Africa, Swaziland, and Lesotho

Wow, what an amazing three weeks spent traveling around southern Africa! It felt so great going to the airport to leave Angola.  Once again, I had good luck getting through the Luanda airport and soon I was heading towards Johannesburg.  Once there, I spent only one night, and immediately grabbed a bus to Gaborone, the capital of Botswana.  From Gaborone went to Francistown, and decided to stop there for the night as well (and had to share the last hotel room with a guy from my bus!).  Finally, the next day, I bused from Francistown to the Botswana/ Zimbabwe border.  Without too much trouble, I was able to hitchhike from the border crossing into the little town of Victoria Falls, where my adventures were to begin (a huge thank you to the border guard, who very kindly waited until just the right vehicle came along- a Wild Horizons employee- to help me find a ride).

When I checked into my hostel in Vic Falls, ahead of me were two girls, Sonja and Steffani.  They were from Germany and just arriving as well.  We wound up going out for a walk to check out the town, and we signed up to go rafting together the next day, which was AWESOME!  Definitely worth the money and a great adventure activity.  That night, Sonja and Steffani and I, plus Rob and Dave, two other guys from our rafting adventure, headed up to the Wild Horizons office to watch the dvd of our rafting trip.  After the viewing, two of the Zimbabweans who work for Wild Horizons, Victor and Future, took us to get some wine and beers and then we went up to the “Hippo Pool”, which technically was closed (due to the likelihood of hippos being there at night), but the moon was full and we were dying to see the falls up close and we had a lot of fun.

The next day we ventured over to the actual Victoria Falls National Park, and got to see the falls in all their glory. Pretty impressive.  Unfortunately, it’s hard to get the full scope from a picture, it’s so massive!  While at the park I ran into Morton and Jasper, two Danish guys who were leaving the next day.  We made plans to travel to Botswana together the next morning.  That night we all went over to another hostel for some wood-fired pizzas and drank at their bar there. The hostel and restaurant owners all have to shop for food in Botswana, because the grocery stores in Zimbabwe are so bare, due to inflation. I brought a pack full of dried noodles to keep me fed for the few days I was here, and I wound up giving the rest of it to the cleaner at the hostel when I left. I also gave my old Teva sandals to Victor, our rafting guide, and he gave me a Zambezi-god stone necklace. I was also able to secure a Zimbabwean hundred million dollar bill so now I’m a millionaire!!

After a couple of taxi rides and some nice people who gave us lifts, Morton and Jasper and I made it over to Botswana, where we stayed a night at Chobe River National Park.  We camped in luxury tents, which make camping pretty damn nice, and it was there that I met Henrietta, who as luck had it, was going to the Okavanga Delta the next day (as was I).  The four of us went on a sunset river cruise that night and watched all the wild animals such as elephants, hippos, and buffaloes that came down to the river to drink.

Henrietta and I had to suffer through a really, really, long bus ride to get to the Okavanga Delta the next day.  At that point, I was pretty damn tired of busing, so I made arrangements to stay in Maun (gateway to the delta) a few extra days and take a flight straight from there to Jo’Burg later in the week when Chris was flying to meet me.  Henrietta and I stayed in the delta for three days, and for two days we took a mokoro safari into the interior parts, which was really cool.  Mokoros are these flat-bottomed canoes that are poled through the shallow delta waters.  The hostel we stayed at gave us tents and cookware, and we got a guide, and we went and spent a night camping way out there.  The next morning we got up early and our guide took us on a bush hike and we saw tons of animals, like zebras, giraffes, elephants, wildebeest, etc.  Definitely fun, although we both got bad sunburns from riding around in the mokoro!

Finally my last day in Botswana, and I flew back to Jo’Burg via Gaborone.  Much faster this time!  I arrived soon after Chris did, and we grabbed a rental car and headed toward our hotel.  The next morning, we drove to Hazyview, which is a small town outside of Kruger National Park.  We based ourselves from there for the next few days.  That’s where our hot air balloon ride was.  We really enjoyed the ride- although the best part was the landing!  At the last minute the winds changed and we ended up landing on a tree, then bumping down to another tree, then landing on the ground.  Then it took over 3 hours to get the balloon and the basket onto the trailer and get us out of the area we landed in.  Not the best landing our pilot had ever made but it was pretty fun!

After the balloon ride, we were all pretty hungry, and we got to have a champagne brunch with our pilot at a lodge.  Then Chris and I spent the rest of the day driving around Kruger National Park.  Still no lion sightings though!

We spent a day going to Swaziland, which was really interesting, as it is an independent country inside of South Africa.  They have a king there, who has 13 wives!  And his father had 70 wives!  It’s a very pretty little country, full of valleys and hills and small mountains.  We visited a candle making factory and a glass factory and watched the workers and bought souvenirs.  When we got back to our hotel, we had a fabulous buffet dinner. Yum.

Happy 40 Years Your Majesty and the Nation Sign Swaziland
Welcome to Swaziland

After Swaziland, we drove over to Lesotho, another country inside South Africa. They have a king also.  We stayed in this little mountain lodge that reminded us both of staying at Monica and Andy’s mountain house.  There we sat on the porch at night, drinking Cape wines and looking at the amazingly bright stars.  The weather at night was nice and crisp and cool, but warm during the day.  We spent one day going on a pony trek around the area, and then later hiked up to the top of a hill where you can see pterodactyl footprints.  Again, a very picturesque country to visit.

Finally, it was time for Chris to go back to work and for me to go home and look for work.  After enduring a 22 hour plane ride, I arrived back home the day after Thanksgiving.  In the last week, my sister had gone into premature labor and delivered Nicholas Paul, my new nephew!  He’s still in the NICU, but he’s doing fine, and I’ve been able to go up and see him and hold him.  He should be able to come home from the hospital in two or three weeks.

It was a great vacation and I definitely recommend some backpacking around Southern Africa for anyone who is interested- there is tons to see and it’s pretty cheap. And you’ll meet a lot of really friendly travellers!

Kalandula Falls and Piedras Negras (Angola)

This weekend Chris and I went camping with our friends Lorrie and Margaret, and Margaret’s daughter Lina.  We left Luanda on Sunday morning and drove east, in search of the Kalendula Falls and the rocks called Piedras Negras.  These are two natural attractions of Angola that a lot of people who live here have heard of, but not many people have actually been to.  Although they are only 6-8 hours away from the capital city now, this was not always the case.  In the past, when there was just a dirt road, it could take over 12 hours to travel to the next closest major city, Malange.  Also, during 30 years of Angola’s civil war, people did not travel within the country from province to province. Chris and I had tried this trip last year over Thanksgiving break, only to wind up getting as far as N’Dalentando, where I was thrown in  jail. 

tourists at roadside market Angola
We stopped in N’Dalentando, just to say hi

So we were pretty excited to try the trip again.  This is my last week visiting Angola so this would be our last chance to try to see the infamous waterfalls.  We had a good time driving out towards Melange, enjoying the scenery and the countryside.  Angola is actually a very beautiful country once you get out of the capital city-very green and pretty.  We finally found the little town where you turn off the main highway to head towards Kalandula, and turned onto a dirt road for the last 45 kilometers.  At last we reached the falls, and they were amazing!  It is reputed that the Kalandula Falls are the 2nd tallest in Africa, at 105 meters.  Apparently there used to be a hotel here, which we could see across the falls from where we were (you can see it in the picture of Chris, below).  It gave the area a whole kind of weird “Lost” vibe, being at this place and finding an old structure that none of us knew had been built there.  One of the visitors at the falls said there used to be a bridge leading to the hotel.  Maybe there is a road on the other side, but we couldn’t see one.  I wonder if anyone will ever rebuild there.

We had brought camping supplies, so we found a good area to camp in- next to a farmer’s cassava field (always good to be near farmland in a country filled with mines)- and we spent the night close to the falls.  The next morning, we found a trail that led down to the river at the bottom of the falls.  It took about 30 minutes to hike to the bottom, but it was totally worth it to see the view of the waterfalls from below.  We sat on some boulders that reached halfway across the river and we felt like we were in the middle of the water.

couple sitting on rock at bottom of Kalendula Falls Angola
At the bottom of the falls

After a while we packed up, found the main highway again, and then found the little dirt road that leads to Piedras Negras, a grouping of old volcanic (?) rocks that are supposed to be really, really old.  I could only find a little information on them, so I don’t know how old they are.  The road leading to the rocks is being paved right now, so I imagine in a few more months the area will start seeing some tourists.  It is really worth going.  The rocks stand out against the skyline in an area that is otherwise very flat.  In one area, there are two small parts of the rocks that are blocked off so you can’t walk there.  We went over to investigate, and discovered that there are footprints in the rocks there.  A woman who was with a group of people explained that they are pre-historic footprints.  I would love to find out how old they are.

After the footprints, we packed it up and headed back home.  It was a long drive home, but again, with the beautiful countryside, it made for a really great trip.  I am very happy that we went.

Ten Day Itinerary for Portugal

flat boat porto port wine portugal

Desperate to leave Angola for a while, I bought a plane ticket to Lisbon. I figured I could practice my Portuguese a bit, while also visiting one of the most beautiful places in Europe. Below is a perfect ten-day itinerary for visiting Portugal for the first time.

blue and white tile church portugal porto chapel of souls
Deah at Quinta de Regaleira

Porto

A city in the north of Portugal, where port wine was created. The city of Porto is pretty small and very fun to walk around. The River Douro runs alongside the city, with a beautiful steel bridge designed by a student of Gustav Eiffel’s. On the other side of the river, numerous port houses store casks of port and offer tours and tastings.

Things to do in Porto:

  • Croft Port House– A perfect place to visit for an afternoon tour and tasting.
  • Serralves Foundation– a beautiful garden and art museum in the city, which includes a rose garden, a working farm, a pond, and other nice things to look at.
  • Torre dos Clerigos– the highest tower in Portugal, built in the 1750’s.

Lisbon

The capital of Portugal.  Home of the giant Christ statue, a fort overlooking the city, some wonderful parks, a couple of museums, and a very nice sculpture garden.  Not a huge city, so it’s nice to explore on foot.  On the weekends, the Bairro Alto area is the happening spot to hang out at night. I spent my time there sightseeing the Cristo Rei statue, the Castelo de Sao Jorge, and the Gulbenkian museum.

Lagos:

A town on the southwestern coast, Lagos was great to just relax for a couple of days and walk around the town, and enjoy the beach. I stayed in a hostel here and found the vibe super welcoming and relaxing.

Sintra 

My favorite part of the trip. I spent the last 4 days in this UNESCO World Heritage town and loved every minute. On one day, I rented a bike so that I could bike to some of the farther away attractions, such as the monastery. Definitely my favorite part of Portugal so far.

Things to do in Sintra:

  • Capuchin Monastery– a really beautiful, tiny monastery built by monks who took literally the line in the Bible “the doorway to heaven is low and narrow”. They built their rooms only 4 feet high with tiny doors. The monastery is surrounded by some beautiful grounds.
  • Pena National Palace and Park– one of the best examples of a restored castle or palace that I have ever seen- and I’ve been to a lot! The castle grounds were amazing, and they have restored a several of the inside rooms to tour through. A nice bike ride from the city of Sintra.
  • Quinta de Regaleira– a truely bizarre palace and grounds. Once the home of royalty, the property was bought in early 1900’s for restoration, and the owner turned over all the plans to an Italian opera set designer to go wild with. Together they turned the palace and gardens into their idea of the entire cosmology, ranging from the garden of Eden, to Dante’s world, to Olympus, etc. You can spend an entire day here and not get bored. Words can’t really describe this place, you really have to look at the pictures.