Road Trip Week Two: South Dakota, Wyoming, and Montana

Roadtrippers map

South Dakota is a surprisingly fun state with lots of interesting- and free- attractions. First up on our list was the Corn Palace in Mitchell- this civic auditorium creates huge murals made of corn products each year (this year’s theme is weather). They also serve some delicious popcorn s’mores balls, which I highly recommend.

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Next on our list was the Akta Lakota Museum– a free (donations welcome) museum that tells the story of the death of Sitting Bull and the massacre at Wounded Knee, as well as general information about the Sioux (the Dakota, Lakota, and Nakota tribes) way of life. The museum has some beautiful art work as well some props from the Dances With Wolves movie. At the same exit, but across the highway, a 50 foot tall statue entitled “Dignity of Earth and Sky” has been installed as of 2016, and is really beautiful. She’s visible from the highway but I’d definitely recommend stopping for a look.

The following day, we started off with a tour of the Minuteman Missile National Historic Site. It is crazy and scary to think of how close we came to nuclear war- not once but on several occasions.

We picked up our National Parks Access Pass ($80, good for one year) at the entrance to Badlands National Park, and spent a few hours driving through there. We got lucky at one of our first pull-offs and encountered a bighorn sheep crossing the road right in front of us. I always thought the Badlands would be fairly monochrome but in fact they were colorful and variable in really lovely ways.

We took the off-highway road through the Buffalo Gap National Grasslands on our way down to Mt Rushmore. We were worried at first because it began to rain, a lot, and the temperatures dropped and it was pretty miserable. But the weather app promised it would clear up, so we parked at Mt Rushmore, dodged the rain, and went and toured the museum and watched the video, and when we came out, the rain had stopped and the fog lifted and we got a nice view of the mountain with Washington, Jefferson, Lincoln, and Roosevelt carved on it.

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The next morning, we visited the Crazy Horse Memorial– my parents had gifted us with a special tour to the top of the arm, where you can really see the work being done on this colossal carving project- the largest in the world, in fact (the four profiles in Mt Rushmore easily fit on the side of Crazy Horse’s head, and when finished, it will be taller than the Washington Monument). Learning about the history of both Crazy Horse and the sculptor, Korczak Ziolkowski, was really awe-inspiring. Imagine being so committed to a project that you knew would be finished in your lifetime!

From there, we drove through the Black Hills and did a quick drive by of both Deadwood and Sturgis. Even a month before the Sturgis motorcycle rally, there were plenty of bikers all over the Black Hills roads. It’s a fun drive. We also stopped in at Belle Fourche, which claims to be the geographic center of the United States.

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We made it to Devil’s Tower, Wyoming, in the afternoon, and went for a walk around the monolithic magma butte- what a cool landform. So unique. We also got to sit for a while and laugh at the prairie dogs, which are really hilarious to watch.

That night we camped in the Bighorn National Forest- we drove in to the park, turned on one of the side roads, and wound up following the road until we were 7800 feet above sea level and we had arrived at a horseman’s camp. But they had empty spots so we pitched our tent there and enjoyed the lovely, if chilly views. The national forest campgrounds provide a picnic table, fire ring, toilets, and water, and are a bargain at only $10.

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With that, we left Wyoming and headed north to Montana. We stopped and spent half a day at the Bighorn National Battlefield Monument, a monument to all the men who died there. The battle is often called “Custer’s Last Stand”, but really, it was the last stand of the Indians who surely knew it was their last chance to avoid being contained on a reservation. The ranger giving the talk was so knowledgeable and obviously really enjoyed his work- this was his 30th summer at that national park.

“Warriors, we have everything to fight for and if we are defeated we shall have nothing left to live for; therefore, let us fight like brave men”. — Sitting Bull

That night we drove into the Lewis and Clark National Forest and camped- we weren’t so high up this time but it was still cold- down in the 40’s- and it rained a bit that night. But our tent stayed dry and we were able to catch the most amazing sunset (still light out at almost ten pm).

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We decided, with this being Fourth of July week, that we will wait to see Yellowstone National Park on our way back after Burning Man in September. Anxious to get on up to Alaska, we passed through the border at Sweet Grass Montana and into Canada this afternoon. Stay tuned for the next blog post in a week or so, which will be about Alberta and Yukon Territory. Got suggestions for these Canadian territories? Let me know.

Road Trip Week One: Ohio, Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota

House on the Rock Wisconsin Spring Green

We gave the house keys to the realtor and Chris carried me over the threshold from our first home to our new life on the road. The first weekend we camped fairly close to home, making sure we had all the equipment we needed and didn’t need to stop by the storage unit and grab anything, and we also took the opportunity for a digital detox. For four days our phones were locked in the glovebox and we were able to connect with nature and each other with no distractions.

Farewell to Southgate Square!
Getting to know our camp set up

Then, confident we had everything we needed for whatever adventures lay ahead of us (and with a lot of extra stuff in the car that we immediately started ditching), we hopped on the Pennsylvania turnpike and headed west. We made it to Ohio and stayed the night in Toledo- a new state for me! Eager to see more, we headed to Michigan the next morning.

Ready for some car camping

Our first “real” stop was Kalamazoo, Michigan. Mainly just because it has a funny name, we had always wanted to visit. Because we both like beer, we went to the Kalamazoo Beer Exchange- a very cool building (used to be a coffin factory) with a fun theme- based on the stock market, the prices of the beer fluctuate all evening and randomly, there will be a  “market crash” and you can buy low! We visited the Kalamazoo Valley Museum, a free 3-story museum with lots of fun to see and explore. We wound up spending a couple of hours there, and really enjoyed it. Then we walked along the downtown pedestrian mall- the first in America!- and picked up some “Yes, there really is a Kalamazoo!” postcards.

This is Kalamazoo

Rain was coming so we drove a couple more hours to Cadillac Lake in the Huron-Manistee National Forest and stayed in a lakeside motel there, enjoying a walk through a state park and a visit to a produce stand and a pasties shop, which made a delicious dinner. We spent the night and then we were back on the road and headed for the UP! We stopped to stretch our legs at the Mackinac Bridge and Light House before venturing over the bridge- the longest single-anchorage bridge in America- that connects lower Michigan to the Upper Peninsula.

Mackinac Lighthouse
“Big Mac”

Once in the Upper Peninsula we went to the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum, at the very tip of the juncture where Lake Superior meets Lake Huron (so far north, AT&T thinks we were in Canada and charged me overages). With over 500 shipwrecks and 3,000 lives lost, there was a lot to explore at this museum including a video about and the bell from the wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald (cue the Gordon Lightfoot here). Chris climbed the lighthouse to watch ships passing through the straits.

We drove through the Hiawatha National Forest, and spent the night at a riverside campground off of Lake Michigan. Not bad for $15, although the mosquitos seemed as big as eagles and made making dinner a chore. However, the night was clear and we were able to sleep without the fly on the tent up and it was a beautiful night.

A clear night for camping
Escanaba River, Michigan

We headed south to Wisconsin and the big attraction there- for us- was Spring Green, home to both Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin and The House on the Rock, which we had both read about in the Neil Gaiman book “American Gods” (currently filming season 2, which actually takes place at the House on the Rock). Thankfully we arrived around 1 pm, and had a full four hours to explore this indescribable attraction. Part architecturally amazing house built on an actual rock (with parts of the rock both inside and outside the house), it is also filled with collections of such oddities I could not even begin to list them. That’s just the first part.

It gets a little weirder with the cantilevered “Infinity Room”, jutting out 218 unsupported feet.

Parts 2 and 3 consist not only “Streets of Yesterday” and “Heritage of the Sea” buildings, there were also huge rooms full of collectibles, models, artwork, toys, games, and – the most amazing bits – full size mechanized orchestras of dolls, skeletons, mannequins- and– most famously- not one but two giant carousels (one of which is the largest in America, and boasts 182 chandeliers). Words defy me here- you just have to see it on your own. Imagine Alice in Wonderland after eating the entire bottle of pills. I’ll leave it at that.

This sea creature is larger than the Statue of Liberty.
Over 200 unique animals on the carousel- not a single horse
Not even sure what this is- steampunk maybe?

With a quick spin to the Frank Lloyd Wright visitor center– they were about to close- and a drive-by of Taliesin, we continued west to La Crosse, a cute college town on the eastern bank of the Mississippi River. We enjoyed a beer and a taco pizza at Sloopy’s Alma Mater, which of course came with fried cheese curds- delicious. It was everything you would expect of a local bar in Wisconsin, complete with a stranger buying us a beer.

We didn’t have any plans for Minnesota except to drive through it to get to South Dakota, so we just made it a straight drive with a stop for lunch. We were hoping for some real Minnesota dishes (I had read “Kitchens of the Great Mid-West” with my book club”) and we were not disappointed with Grandma’s Kitchen, which featured a chicken salad made with chicken, mayo, cool whip, and grapes, with a rootbeer float.

Minnesota

And so we continue. Our next update will feature South Dakota, Wyoming, and Montana, so stay tuned for another post before we head into Canada and then Alaska.

Any suggestions for Wyoming or Montana? Drop them here!

Could you Downsize from a Townhome to a 40 Liter backpack?

suitcases stacked

Four years ago Chris and I rented out our house, stored all our belongings, and backpacked southeast Asia for a year. At that point we had only lived in our home for two years, so we hadn’t acquired too much stuff, and we could utilize a free pack/move/store deal attached to Chris’s retirement. So I didn’t really have to do much to prepare.

Everything we own, packed and ready to store for a year (2014)

This year, as we started making plans to take a year off and travel around “middle” Asia, I realized we would have to do it all ourselves. We needed to start thinking about downsizing our ever-growing belongings, storing what was left, and what to do with our house. After much discussion and analyzing, we decided to sell our house instead of renting it out. Thus, our downsizing and decluttering would need to take place at the same time as getting the house ready to show and sell.

For Sale!

I started by reading a couple of books for some guidance: The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up, by Marie Kondo, and later, The Gentle Art of Swedish Death Cleaning, by Margreta Magnusson. I listened to “The Year of Less” by Cait Flanders. These books helped me get a handle on what to keep. We also watched the Netflix documentary “Mimimalism”, and perused their website. Through a Twitter tip from a cyber-friend, I discovered the “Sell All Your Stuff” blog, and started reading their posts. In a happy coincidence, my friend Amy, also on a decluttering kick, invited me to join the Poshmark and Mercari sites, two apps that allow you to list your items and sell them online.

Items out, cash in!

Around the time that we started getting serious about culling and Goodwilling items, two friends came visiting to DC. We had actually met Tricia and Kurt on our cruise from LA to Australia four years earlier, and had told them about our year-long travel plans. Unbeknownst to me, they had followed my blog for the intervening years and had decided to they should also downsize, rent their home, and head overseas. I like to think we inspired them! When we reunited with them in DC, something they said made me really think. I asked them about how they were able to get rid of the things in their homes… those awards, those paintings, those souvenirs that you like…. but don’t necessarily want to keep your whole lifetime. Tricia told me “I looked at every item and thought “If I died, would my kids keep this? If yes, we put it in storage. If not, it went to Goodwill or was sold”.

Tricia and Kurt, loving their on-the-go lifestyle!

And so I resolved to do the same. At around the time we started working with a realtor to sell the house, I started listing unused or seldom used furniture on Facebook Marketplace, and I doubled my efforts on Poshmark and Mercari. My efforts paid off, and I earned about $2400, while still keeping items we will need when we eventually “land” again in the US, such as our bed, some clothing items, kitchenware, etc. For items that didn’t sell well, or were just too low-priced to be worth my time, I offered up to my local “Buy Nothing” group on Facebook.

Camping out- after we sold our couch and coffee table

After leaving our house in June, we are taking a 4 month road trip, first to Alaska, and then down to Burning Man festival. We were able to think of our car as an intermediary between having a house full of stuff, and only a backpack. We created a camping kitchen kit, a first aid kit, and a car emergency kit. We separated the items we would need for our “bedroom” in our tent, and we will take more clothes than we probably need, because we have the room in the car and because we will pass through several temperate zones. Once we return from camping, we will need to once more downsize that load of stuff into just what we can carry in our Osprey backpacks. For more information on what we carry for long-term backpacking travel, I wrote a post about that here.

We’re pretty good at car camping!

Parting with items is hard- whether it’s selling them, donating them, or giving them to a friend who has always admired them. But you also feel a little bit lighter with every item that leaves your house. As Americans, we are pushed by a consumer-driven economy to buy, buy, buy. We are bombarded with dozens of advertisements a day. We mortgage houses that are too big for us, and then shop to fill them up with items. Chris and I have talked a lot about how we want our next space to look. We plan to combine offices, for one- both of us only use our “office” a few hours a week. Although we’ve had a full guest suite, I think next time it will be a fold out couch in the shared office instead (sorry, Micah). Public libraries and nearby stores often loan out items such as kitchen items (ice cream makers!) and tools (Autozone and Home Depot), so you don’t need to keep all those barely-used items at your house. Also check your local Buy Nothing group: I had a hankering to try dehydrating some foods and asked for a lesson from a neighbor; after trying it out for a weekend, I realized I did not actually want to purchase or own a dehydrator! There’s probably dozens of items in most of our homes that are rarely used.

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Okay, ours probably won’t be this fancy but I can dream, right?

What are some creative ways you’ve been able to downsize? And what are the must-haves we need to take on our road trip? Leave me a comment below:

How do you say goodbye to your hometown?

christmas tree at reston town center pavilion virginia

Six years ago, Chris and I left Africa and returned to the US. In just one short month, we lived in a hotel, got married, bought a house, got a job (Deah), and got deployment orders for nine months (Chris). It was a crazy month, and we we found ourselves living in Reston, Virginia- which turned out to be our home for the next few years.

Reston has a very interesting history. It was one of the original “New Town” planned communities of the 50s and 60s, designed by a man named Robert E Simon (our town is named after his initials). It was inaugurated on Simon’s 50th birthday in 1964, and ol’ Bob lived to see quite the expansion of the area during the rest of his lifetime- I actually met him in 2013, and he lived until the age of 101.

Continue reading “How do you say goodbye to your hometown?”

Trinidad and Tobago: Two Islands, One Nation

Chris walking beach Tobago horse tracks

With a week off for Spring Break, we hopped on Air Canada for a flight down to Trinidad and Tobago. We spent the first three nights in Buccoo, a small fishing village in Tobago. Buccoo is very laid back; our days consisted of coffee and buns at the local bakery, hanging around the pristine beach, and watching the fishermen bring in their catch and the goats get ready for goat racing (yes, it’s a thing).

We stayed at Miller’s Guest House, which was an ideal location for us. They have an on-site restaurant, Luvinia’s, where we sampled a few wonderful dishes, but they also have a communal kitchen, where we cooked some freshly-caught cavalli fish with potatoes and carrots and mixed our own Angostura rum and Cokes. Also in Buccoo is the Sunday night party called “Sunday School”, an open-air forum where a steel band plays from about 9-10 pm, then a dj plays and the crowd, both local and tourist, dance until the early hours. A small bar sells Carib beer and rum drinks, and local vendors set up food stalls so you can try Tobago’s traditional treats, such as shark and bake (a fried fish sandwich on local bread), callaloo and saltfish, jerked chicken, macaroni pie, and beans. All of which is, of course, delicious.

From Buccoo, there are options for sightseeing. Pop’s Tours will set up a fishing expedition, a glass-bottom boat to the Buccoo Reef, a swim in the Nylon Pool, or an island tour to see some waterfalls. Healing with Horses is a local stable that will take you on a horseback ride along the beach to the popular Pigeon Point. We decided to take the local bus (always an adventure) into Scarborough, the biggest city on the island. There we visited the library (I’m a librarian, and I always like to see local ones- this one was really nice!! and air conditioned!!) and then we walked up to Fort King George to see the view and tour their museum, well worth visiting. We had a local lunch in town and then took the bus back (another adventure!).

Fort King George Tobago Scarborough
Fort King George

Then we took the 30 minute flight (at just $25, it’s really a much better option than the 4-6 hour ferry, which is often late and one of which caught on fire this week) to Trinidad, where we stayed in the capital city Port of Spain for three days. We stayed at the Inn at 87, a small inn by the Queen’s Park Savannah. Port of Spain is….well, it’s a big city, by island standards, and like all cities it has its high points and its low points. Arapiata Avenue, called “the Avenue” by locals, is where Carnival happens in February and where the bars and restaurants are located. The Queen’s Park Savannah is a large park which features a sporting stadium, and most nights (or at least weekends and festivals) there is a set up of local vendors and food stalls. There we were able to try the Trinidadian specials we had been on the look out for: doubles (a kind of Indian fry-bread topped with chickpeas, hot pepper sauce, sweet chutney, and coleslaw); roti (chapati with meat and aloo and pepper sauce); corn soup; and pholouri (a kind of dough ball, fried, and dipped in mango chutney or tamarind sauce).

Along the western edge of  Queen’s Park there is a row of the “Magnificent Seven”, some historic buildings that date back to the 1800s, when Trinidad was a British colony. Along the northern edge of the park is the zoo, and next to that is the Botanic Gardens, nice to stroll through.  South of the park (which some say is the largest roundabout in the world, 3.7 km), around the Woodford Square area, you can find the Old Library (a lovely building, being restored), the Red House (the prime minister’s office), the Old Police Station (much nicer than the current “Hall of Justice”), and a museum. We used my GPSMyCity app to go on a self-guided walking tour of these buildings. Unfortunately for us, all of these were closed for the Good Friday/Easter weekend, but we did get to see the gorgeous facades. Happily, Bob’s on Marli (street) was open during the holiday so I didn’t starve (although not much else was open- Trinidadians take their public holiday VERY seriously).

For my last day in town, I hired a driver and explored out of Port of Spain a bit. He took me down to the Pitch Lake, the largest tar lake in the world. I got to walk around the spongy tar surface- don’t stand in one place too long or you’ll start sinking!- and I visited the museum there, which I thought was fascinating. Most of the world’s roads are made with pitch (tar) that comes from Trinidad!  There’s another tar lake in Venezuela (actually it’s the same as Trinidad’s lake, as they used to be connected millions of years ago) and one in Southern California. We visited a hot pepper sauce stand with some amazing sauces (so of course I had to buy a bottle to take home for Chris), and then we went by the Temple by the Sea, a Hindu temple in village of Waterloo (there is a large Hindu population of Trinidad, which greatly influences their cuisine). We also drove along the Caroni Bird Sanctuary, but it started to rain so we didn’t see many birds (there are over 480 bird species in Trinidad, many of them quite rare. They are known for their Scarlet Ibis).

I flew home overnight on Air Canada, and had Sunday to rest up before heading back to work, ready to finish the last quarter of the school year. Chris had left Trinidad the day before me, and is visiting St Lucia for a few days before heading home. Here’s a shot he sent me from his hotel.

soufriere st lucia view of green mountain
Soufriere, St Lucia

*A note on visiting Trinidad and Tobago: currently, you pretty much have to land in Trinidad first and then fly on Caribbean Airlines to Tobago. However, a possible deal with JetBlue is in the works to get a direct flight into Tobago from some US cities. If I were to visit again, I’d skip Trinidad altogether. But, I am glad that I visited it this week, because that way I can give you all the facts about both islands in this interesting country. (okay, maybe not all the facts but you know what I mean).

Questions/comments about Trinidad or Tobago? Let me know in the comments section: